We’ve covered a lot of ground since our last post:
-Daytona Beach -St. Augustine for St. Patty’s Day -Fernandina Beach -And now Jekyll Island
We talked a bit about Fernandina Beach on the way south. It’s a vibrant little town on Amelia Island with lots of pedestrian traffic and lots of great restaurants. We’ve never made it over to the ocean-facing side of the town; we’ve always been busy on the ICW-facing side.
Left Fernandina on an unseasonably cold, windy day – the wake on the boat was blowing up on the left and being held down on the right – here’s a shot out the back
Once you leave Fernandina Beach, you’re crossing the Georgia line, and our first stop in Georgia is Jekyll Island. Jekyll Island lies along the Georgia coast – in the heart of what are called “The Golden isles”. It became a playground for titans of industry and finance more than a century ago when some of the wealthiest American families, including Morgans, Vanderbilts, Astors, and Rockefellers, formed the Jekyll Island Club and built enormous winter “cottages”. Here’s a photo of the hotel that was the centerpiece of the club.
The state of Georgia bought the island in 1947 and set about limiting development while protecting the historic buildings and vast natural landscape.
Jekyll Island is a place to relax!
We toured the island by golf cart, and it is truly charming. I really like this place. Beaches, forests, marshes, bike paths, walking trails, some modern hotels, and perfectly-preserved historical edifices.
We stayed an extra day, so that we’d have more time to explore. We visited Driftwood Beach which is covered with beautiful skeletons of huge trees which fell on the beach and were left in place Here’s some shots:
These trees are huge – notice Guinness in the foreground
These continue for about a half mile on the beach!
Tomorrow, we move a little farther up the coast to St. Simon’s Island, another of the “Golden Isles”.
Since Guinness’ last post, we have slowly started our northbound return trip. -Ft Lauderdale -Palm Beach -Cocoa Village
We are now at mile marker 900…still 900 miles south of Norfolk, and about 350 miles north of Key West.
But the weather has turned COLD. I know that it is the result of some meta weather patterns, and that warmer weather should return. But it makes us wonder why we ever left the Exumas!
Partly because the weather has turned so cold so quickly, we have decided to SLOW DOWN and take our time coming north. So we’re adding side trips to exotic places like: -Jekyll Island -Bohicket Creek -Ocracoke
Last night, however, we were happy to be here: Cocoa is just south of Cape Canaveral, and we were able to watch SpaceX CRS-27 cargo resupply rocket launch. We’ve all seen them on TV, but it truly was inspiring to see that rocket light up the sky and streak upwards.
3…2…1…takeoff!
This is not a sunset, it was actually pitch dark until this!
We were able to track this for about five minutes. And then!
This was really cool to see but the iPhone didn’t pick it up well.
That’s 154 successful missions for the current version of the SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket! Bravo Elon Musk!
We had hoped to visit the boardwalk at Cocoa Beach today, but it’s chilly and rainy, so we’re onboard, writing to all of you instead.
Tomorrow, we’re off to Daytona Beach, and then on Friday night we’re meeting friends in St Augustine to celebrate St Patrick’s Day!
Today was a tough day for me … or should I say a bouncy day.
Last night we were in a marina with two mini-me’s next door. Cute little doodles who wanted to play. I didn’t get to say goodbye this morning because we left really early. I just kept hearing Rod and Lynn say – we’re doing this.
From where we were in Bimini to where we were going in Fort Lauderdale, we had to cross a stream. I play in streams all the time at home, but this one is a big deal – it even has its own name – THE GULF STREAM. Crossing it can also be a big deal if the wind and swells aren’t just right, but Rod and Lynn kept saying “ today looks like the only day for the next week that we can cross so we’re going.
Here I am wishing this trip would be over.
It was pretty bouncy and one time even Lynn got surprised when a big wave hit the boat. She usually just looks at me and smiles and says “it’s okay Guinness”.
So I put my head down and tried to sleep.
Now we are tied up in the marina again and I heard them say we’re back in the USA. I think that’s a good thing. I feel safe with these guys. I love them and I know they love me too.
It turns out that last night was our last night in the Bahamas!
As you recall, we had to wait 5 days for our fuel filter to come in from Nassau, and the last two days of that wait were perfect travel weather. The forecast for the next week looked rough, so I was afraid we had missed our chance to move on. We liked Spanish Wells, but it was getting old.
So we emailed Chris Parker – our subscription weather service – and he suggested that – rather than going back through the Abacos, we just run due west to Chub Cay on Wednesday (today), then to Bimini on Thursday, and back to Ft Lauderdale on Friday.
He urged us to get into Chub by noon, as he was watching a line of squalls that would materialize in the afternoon. So we left at 6:30 and tied up here at 11:25. It was rougher than we like, but the boat (with its new fuel filter) ran well.
Here’s two shots of our last (moonlit) night in Spanish Wells.
Walking back from dinner.
View from the back of our boat
Tomorrow, we cannot leave early, because conditions are expected to improve as the day goes along. The plan is to leave around 10AM and roll into Bimini just before sunset. I’m not accustomed to traveling that late in the day, but that is our weather window.
It looks like it is again going to be rougher than we like, but we have to move in order to catch favorable weather for crossing the Gulf Stream on Friday. Friday is supposed to be “benign”! I sure hope that’s true.
Since we’re stuck here in Spanish Wells, waiting for a fuel filter, we decided to take a “tourist day” and visit the nearby town of Dunmore on Harbour Island. We had heard that it’s a cute little town, with charming houses, some good restaurants, and beautiful beaches on the ocean side. So we:
rode a golf cart to the ferry
hopped a ferry to another part of Eleuthera – James Bay – took a cab to Three Islands Dock
took a ferry to Dunmore on Harbour Island
rented a golf cart to explore Harbour Island
went to a gorgeous beach
had lunch at Valentine’s (the Heartbeat of Harbor Island)
caught a ferry back to Three Islands Dock
took a cab for a tour of more Eleuthera sights and back to James Bay – rode the ferry back to Spanish Wells
walked back to the boat
The highlights for me (Rod) were:
The gorgeous 3-mile beach where Guinness learned to play frisbee and ran with the horses
Talking to a crew member of a boat whose passengers’ mother has just moved from Hersheys Mill and kids had attended two schools in Malvern – another small world story on our trip!
the bar scene at Valentine’s (it’s Spring Break, and there were 40 gorgeous college guys and gals knocking down beers). I don’t know how the bartender kept track.
The highlights for me ( Lynn) were:
Seeing the Sapphire Blue Hole – an underwater cave with blue salt water fed by tunnels from the ocean. Braver souls than me would have jumped in.
Seeing the glass bridge with the ocean crashing in one one side and the pale blue/green Carribean in the other side.
Our driver coming back from Dunmore was a great tour guide – he was so proud of his island. However, driving on a narrow road, on the left side, at 60 mph, might have been the most frightening part of this trip!
Hi everyone, we are back on the air, and back at Spanish Wells.
We had a wonderful visit to Staniel Cay. There was a certain peacefulness to our stay in Staniel, because we knew it was the turnaround point in our trip. The harbor itself is gorgeous – large and picturesque, with small islets poking their heads up here and there. And it is completely open to the west, so the sunsets were spectacular. They had no room for us at the docks, so we picked up a mooring ball (and had a ball!). We used the dinghy to run back and forth to the beach.
Almost a “ green flash”!
Staniel Cay is a hoppin’ little place, in part because of its airport. It is a popular place for boaters to pick up and drop off visitors and crew, so there are always beautiful yachts coming and going. They have a colorful bar, and DELICIOUS food.
The most popular attractions in the area are the Thunderbolt Grotto and the Swimming Pigs, and we managed to enjoy both:
The Thunderbolt Grotto is the site where they filmed the eponymous James Bond movie. Essentially, it is a mound-shaped island that is completely hollow inside. The entrance is typically underwater, but it reveals itself at low tide. You swim in wearing your mask and fins, and the view above and below the water is dramatically lit by holes in the rock overhead.
In contrast, the swimming pigs are just a hoot! They swim out to meet your boat in the hopes you’ve brought carrots, and you can play with them on the beach.
This guy came out to meet us only to be disappointed.
If you don’t bring food, you hold up your hands like a blackjack dealer and they turn around, We chose to stay on the boat but others dinghy ashore to go play with them.
On the “bad news” side, I had noticed a certain hesitancy in the engine as I throttled up, so I took a look at the Racor filter – the one that separates out any water in the fuel. It appeared to have captured quite a bit of water in it, so I emptied it and changed the filter element. Unfortunately, as it filled again from the fuel tank, the new fuel also looked pale and watery.
I called the marina and learned that diesel fuel in the Bahamas is not red (as it is in the States) but amber. It also has less aroma.
So I figured we were OK.
Yesterday – Wednesday – presented us with a perfect weather window, so we decided to make a long jump back to Eleuthera, retracing our path through the Exumas, all the way back to Spanish Wells. About a 7 hour trip – calm winds and flat seas. But the boat began acting up almost immediately: it would not let us go any faster than about 16mph, compared to our top speed of 20 mph. It felt like the engine wasn’t getting enough fuel.
Nevertheless, we decided to press on, knowing that – if we could reach Spanish Wells, we had a better chance of finding a skilled mechanic to assist. And we had to hold up in Spanish Wells for three days anyway, waiting for our next weather window.
Four hours later, our speed dropped to 14 mph. Two hours later, it dropped to 12 mph. But we made it!
We are now busy doing the wash, re-provisioning, and trying to line up a mechanic. We’ll keep you informed!
Whenever I talked to folks about going to the Bahamas, they all said, “Oh, you have to go to the Exumas!” “Why?” I would ask. “It’s the color of the water,” was always the response.
We began to notice it as we crossed from Spanish Wells (Eleuthera) to Nassau…we were riding along on the darkest blue water we’d ever seen. As dark as ink. We were riding on a body of water called “The Tongue of the Ocean”.
Most of the Bahamas are defined by something called the Great Bahama Bank – a huge underwater mesa that was uplifted millions of years ago. The Cays that we have been visiting are high spots poking up off the Bank. The waters over the Bank are generally shallow – typically less than thirty feet deep, and frequently less than 10 feet, with lots of sandbars and coral heads that make navigation tricky. In contrast, the Tongue of the Ocean is a deep trench that protrudes into the Bank. In the course of a few hundred yards, the water drops precipitously to 5,000 feet deep! Thus the dark blue color.
Here in the Exumas, the water colors are the way they would look in an unspoiled world – prettiest I’ve seen. It’s due to the clarity. This morning, I was standing on the beach at Compass Cay, waist deep, and watching a wave break over my head. As I looked up, it was like looking through a pane of glass. The water has a very pale green tint – I don’t know why – so it’s like looking through a thick pane of glass – rather like one you’d use for a tabletop. I had truly forgotten what water would look like in an unspoiled world.
At the water’s edge, it’s almost “water clear”. Then as you move away from the shore, and the water gets deeper and deeper, the color deepens from pale green to turquoise to indigo. Vegetation on the bottom creates purple tones. I know we’ve all experienced the color of tropical water, but this is really quite beautiful. The clarity is also apparent in terms of visibility. Our boat, sitting at the marina, looks like it’s sitting on a lucite slab. Drop a crust of bread in the water, and your slip becomes an aquarium. There’s really no need for a reef dive – we are surrounding by Sergeant Majors, Blue Runners, Bonefish, Snappers, Blue Tangs, and Turtles!
HThe run from Nassau was pretty bumpy. Not scary. Just sloppier than we expected. We had to cut our speed down and just slog through it. We were relieved when – five hours later – we pulled into Norman’s Cay and a brand new marina, with private homes and rental properties being built by the folks who did the Four Seasons in Miami. It’s still a work in process, but it will be first class. Norman’s Cay is an arid, hilly island with no topsoil that I could see – just coral rock and coarse coral sand. So the amount of work required to create and cultivate (irrigate) a tropical landscape is pretty impressive.
We met one of the employees – a man named Dan. His family is in Nassau, and it’s hard on his wife and kids, who are 5 and 6. but he works at Norman Cay because it is lucrative. The development company houses him and feeds him, so he can save his entire paycheck. He works three weeks straight and gets the fourth week off. The company flies him back and forth in the company plane.
We had dinner at a quaint little beachside cafe called McDuff’s. McDuff’s has been there forever; I’m sure they will experience a revenue boost from the new marina.
Yesterday, we had a short trip south from Norman’s Cay to Compass Cay in just a light chop, so we took our time, poking our head into several little harbors along the way. Later next week, we plan to spend several nights on a mooring in one of these little harbors.
Compass Cay is a Private Island with a public marina, and it features “Swimming With Sharks”! Lynn passed, but I couldn’t resist!
One of the few times Guinness didn’t jump in the water when Rod was snorkeling.
We were told not to expect cell or internet service, but it turns out the marina has an internet cafe
Last night was the first sunset we saw with a direct view straight off the bow and no clouds on the horizon – still looking for the green flash!
Tomorrow, it’s a short trip down to Staniel Cay, the southernmost stop on our journey. And the forecast calls for light winds and calm seas.
First things first: it appears that Guinness is going to be okay. I saw his X-rays, and the bones he ate passed through his stomach and intestines and they are in his colon waiting for him to pass them – the doctor is not worried. He is confident that if they passed through his intestines, they will not cause a blockage. We, of course, are going to be much more careful about leaving bones where he can get them.
So we are free to leave Lyford, and tomorrow we are finally off to the Exumas. We’ve had to juggle our reservations around quite a bit, but it appears that we will be able to have a very nice visit to what is reportedly the most beautiful part of the Bahamas. From what we hear, the beaches and the colors of the water are just spectacular. Meanwhile, we are spending our last afternoon at Lyford Cay living the life of the “rich and famous” admiring these spectacular mega- yachts that are berthed here in the marina.
Here are photos of a few:
A sailboat with a mast so tall, instead of a white anchor light, it has a red light to warn aircraft. Seriously!
This one, which is of Italian design is called “Totally Nuts”. It’s an example of the way Italian designers are driving the look of boats in the future. Note the reverse bow.
And see the window washer hanging off the side like they on high rise buildings.
And here’s another shot of Invictus – the daddy of them all that holds another boat inside.
And as our friend David says, I never want to own a boat that looks like a sneaker – a 70 foot one at that!
As we move into the Exumas, we don’t expect good cell or Wi-Fi coverage. We’ll keep the blog going and post updates when we can. We’ve planned carefully so we won’t run out of food, fuel and water, so don’t worry if you don’t hear from us.
So if you read yesterdays blog, we were supposed to be in Highbourne Cay today, our first stop in the Exumas, but things took a turn. Let’s back up a few days.
Saturday night we had a great dinner at the marina – braised lamb shanks, risotto, mushrooms, and we took home some leftovers. Guinness helped himself to a lamb bone and by the time Rod got it away from him, he had chewed off the knuckle of the bone and swallowed it whole. He was having a great time.
We didn’t think much of it at the time, but he didn’t poop Sunday or Monday. He’s been listless and not wanting to eat which is unusual for him Rod woke up at 1:30 Tuesday morning and realized what might be happening – a possible blockage in his intestines.
It’s hard to imagine how different things are here in the islands. Spanish Wells doesn’t have a pet clinic but there is a vet who visits once a week, some weeks. Nassau is where all the services take place. So we changed our plans and headed over here. Nassau has a reputation for being more like the inner city in some of the major US cities and our boat doesn’t lock up, so i was concerned about safety issues. And Rod was concerned about the marinas and traffic in town with the narrow channel and cruise ships.
We got the name of three vets from the wonderful groomer who is also a vet tech in Marsh Harbour and found one on the western side of the island with a nearby marina. Turns out this place is one of the most luxurious marinas in the world and only 15 minutes from one of the recommended vets. We have a cab picking us up at 2:00 – more later…..
So, Guinness is fine. They ran tests and he had passed most of the stuff through his small intestine and into his colon, but the vet wants to see him in the morning. They gave him special food that’s easily digestible and he gobbled it up.
But the most interesting part of this is the area we find ourselves in. We are now in Lyford Cay, (google it) the land of the “rich and famous”. The mega yacht parked near us is worth $100million and charters for 12 guests and 19 crew at $525,000 a week – can we find ten other friends to join us (just kidding!)
And the cab driver didn’t have a problem with our dog in the car since Scarlett Johanssen uses him to take all four of her dogs to the same vet when she’s in town. The grocery store down the mall from the vet was as beautiful as any Whole Foods in the US. We have gone from a very underdeveloped part of the Bahamas to an area more like Beverly Hills in a few hours.
The “little” cottages right behind our slip.
So we will now rearrange our schedule and try to rebook the marinas in the Exumas. While this is lovely, the restaurant requires men to wear jackets, no children under 18 allowed in the restaurant (obviously no dogs) but the beach is lovely and we hope to spend some time there tomorrow before we take off and get back on track.
This was stressful, but Guinness is fine and seeing this part of the Bahamas really gives us an appreciation for how the rest of the islands are challenged. We’re glad we can support their economies and enjoy the unspoiled and underdeveloped areas of these islands.
Leaving Spanish Wells… sounds like a Bob Dylan song, doesn’t it?
It’s an unusual little town, built along a channel between St. Georges Cay, and two neighboring cays called Russell Island and Charles Island. The name stems from the days when St George’s was a crucial stop for Spanish ships crossing the Atlantic. But it was actually settled by the Eleutheran Adventurers, a group who left Bermuda seeking religious tolerance and freedom from persecution.
Entrance to channel at Spanish Wells
Now, it’s a quiet little stop – half tourist and half commercial: the islanders harvest nearly 75% of the nations spiny lobster catch, a lot of which goes to Red Lobster! Interestingly, the population is 82% Caucasian with a very interesting accent, somewhere between British and Patois.
The weather pattern has changed dramatically: almost every day in Abaco was breezy, with temperatures in the 70’s. We were constantly aware of wind shifts, with the wind often veering 360* in 24 hours. Here, it’s calm and quiet, with temperatures approaching 80*.
There are three amazing restaurants right on the water, and the water colors themselves are breathtaking.
Took a golf cart to a neighboring island for breakfast and then for a ride on the beach.
Breakfast at the Sandbar Grill
Yesterday, we waded out on a HUGE sandbar that extended for acres at low tide. We saw starfish and rays, and Guinness had a ball gamboling in the shallows.
The marina here is lovely with small villas, a nice fresh water pool and a good restaurant called Wreckers. And very dog friendly.
A little villa at the marina
It’s on a narrow channel yet there are large yachts here and today we saw this huge barge delivering supplies to the island – must have a very special low draft.
But it’s time to head south – into the Exumas. We’re told that most of the photos one sees of the Bahamas are taken in the Exumas, and we can’t wait for the next phase of our journey. Tomorrow, we leave in mild conditions for a 50-mile trip through the Bight of Eleuthera, after which we will run south along the Great Bahama Bank, stopping at several cays along the way to enjoy the sights. Our first stop is Highbourne Cay.
Rod & Guinness' Amazing Adventures 