Another Beautiful Night

80 degrees and breezy. Going down to a chilly 76. The sea is deep blue with those diamond-like sparkles from the sun’s reflections, A beautiful sunset. And there’s a full moon rising.

Drinks and conversation on the Sunset Pier with Michelle. No photos:: she’s married and has two children. But a great conversation nevertheless. A kindred spirit. BTW, she thought “Send Me On My Way” was by Talking Heads but it’s Rusted Root! “I’d like to agree with you, but then we’d both be wrong!”

(Thanks to Guinness for providing the introduction.)

Now I’m back n the boat with my dog and my playlist. Listening to Sarah McLachlan. Does it try any better?

Time here is winding down. It’s bittersweet.

Sui Generis

For those of you who did NOT take four years of Latin in high school, as I did, it means “unique unto itself” or – loosely – “one of a kind”.

In a moment of quiet reflection last night (or was it a drunken stupor?) I began thinking about all the individuals I’ve met on this trip. And I realized that they are truly individuals – no two alike. As individual as snowflakes: every possible skin color, economic circumstance, religion, political persuasion, gender, body shape, and sexual orientation.

I’ve met some of the wealthiest people I’ve ever encountered, and I’ve befriended some of the homeless folks who populate the Key West waterfront. And they’ve all been equally kind.

I’ve met boater friends from all over the country.

I’ve met folks with all sorts of approaches to life…

  • some are still working remotely from their boats
  • some live and work in Key West
  • some live on their boat full time
  • others live on their boat part time
  • some divide their time between Florida and other wonderful parts of the country – like Colorado

And they all have their stories to tell.

I realize that this epiphany is a bit of a cliche, but it’s still a very comforting thought…if one of the purposes of this trip was to seek out new experiences, I’d have to say that it’s working. Changes in latitude; changes in attitude.

In his Intimations of Immortality, Wordsworth wrote: “Trailing clouds of glory do we come: From God, who is our home: Heaven lies about us in our infancy!” For some years now, I’ve been trying to age backward to that blissful state of purity and innocence. Trying to become a better man, despite my predilection for clownish misbehavior and protracted self-abuse.

I’ve also come to realize that what I like about these people is that they live unconventional lives. Unlike me. I’ve led a very conventional (if somewhat priviledged) life: college; graduate school; military service; marriage; career…

Earlier tis week I met Anrea, my masseuse. She’s Hungarian, and she’s traveled all over the world on no money. Two weeks in Nepal with a Sherpa and a cook for $300. Three weeks in Asia for a total of $3,000. She did it when she was younger; she backpacked. That’s not right for me at my age, but still..

This summer, I’ll take the boat to Maine… after that it’s a blank slate.

I’m determined to bring this attitude home with me…to view everyone I meet as Sui Generis. With his or her own story to tell. And to consider a more unconventional life.

Northbound Itinerary

Below, I’ve attached a spreadsheet that summarizes our northbound itinerary.

Almost certainly, the plan will change, depending on several factors:

  • Weather in the northeast: my yacht club friend Art Nielsen advises that the long-range forecast for the northeast is ugly, and he suggests staying down here a couple more weeks.
  • Weather in the Keys, particularly the Hawk Channel: I will need a 3-day weather window to run outside past the keys and up to Stuart, FL
  • Weather during the balance of the trip
  • My ability to stick to my plan of running roughly 100 miles per day, which is aggressive: it means 6 hours per day underway; that’s a lot when you have no one to relieve you at the wheel.

It’s most aggressive as I try to cover ground in Florida – more than half of the trip is measured from Key West to Savannah. I’m going to focus on that segment first.

Redundancy

Let’s talk about the value of redundant systems.

I keep my phone in a handy leather case that also holds my credit cards. Very convenient until it vanished yesterday. In the middle of the day.

Remember my post about how everything must be in its place? Well, the phone/credit card case wasn’t where it should have been. It didn’t take long to search the boat – no joy. I used the Find My iPhone app, and it led to the boat at 2PM, but then nothing. No idea where it went. Overboard?

So today was a scramble to cancel credit cards and get a new phone. New cards are on the way, but I didn’t have enough cash on hand to buy a new phone, and without my debit card I couldn’t get more cash from an ATM.

Plus. some of my boat buddies were going to treat me to dinner, and they couldn’t reach me because I had no phone. So I finished off a FABULOUS lasagna that was a gift from my cousin Kim.

I have my Mac Air laptop (hence this post) and Cathy’s iPad, but the iPad doesn’t have cellular service.

The phone was insured, so I took a taxi to the T-Mobile store (no Uber app without the phone of course), but the store is “Closed Indefinitely. System Failure.” Whatever that means. What a pain.

Once I get the credit cards, I’ll get a new phone, but then I have to re-install all my Navigation apps.

I’m pretty sure I’ll work my way through this, but it is unsettling to have these problems arise on the brink of our departure.

And I am certainly not going to keep my credit cards and my phone together again. It’s like putting all your eggs in one basket. And I plan to get an Apple watch for redundancy.

Yikes.

Reefer

No, not the weed. The refrigerator!

Not an easy installation: 3 hours of carpentry, plumbing, electrical. Not by me – by the pro’s. All for what was supposed to be a slide-in replacement. They did a great job, and the new unit is a major upgrade.

Tomorrow we can re-provision: call Fausto’s Food Paradise or Publix and get a major delivery!

Definitely getting ready for the trip home.

Banks

One of the logistical challenges on a boat like mine is that we do not have a washer/drier.

Most marinas have a laundry, but the machines take a lot of quarters: at least $2 for a load of wash, and $2 for the drier. So typically, that means $8 per visit.

Also, it is traditional to tip the dockmaster/dockhand who helps you tie up, connect the shore power, etc.

So in preparation for the trip south, we bought $50 in quarters and $200 in $5 bills.

Seeking to repeat the process, we went to a bank in Key West. Their response was: “Oh, I’m sorry. We no longer have cash drawers. Unless you have an account with us, we cannot access the cash.”

Me: “But, I thought this was a bank?”

Mgr: “Well, it is a bank, sir, but we no longer have cash drawers.

Me: “Look, I am holding ten $20-dollar bills. All you have to do is exchange them for $5’s. No net change to your cash balance.”

Mgr: I understand, sir, but we no longer have cash drawers.”

Me: “OK, but you must keep cash in varying denominations SOMEWHERE, right?”

Mgr: “I’m sorry sir, we no longer have access to that cash unless you have an account with us.”

Me: “What’s the point of that? Are you worried about a holdup? Are you afraid I’ll vault the counter and scoop up the cash?

“Or more realistically, considering my age and my fading athleticism, that I’ll walk calmly to the window like Robert Redford with a note requesting the money? “

Mgr: “Sir, I’m very uncomfortable with this conversation.”

Me: “Well, I realize I am wearing a mask in your bank lobby… but nowadays, I’m more likely to get arrested for NOT wearing a mask in your bank lobby! How’s that for an irony?”

Mgr: “Sir, I’m afraid I must ask you to leave.”

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Gentle Readers: Do you comprehend how surreal this whole conversation was?

BTW, I walked two more blocks and found a bank that still trafficks in US currency.

Living in 260 Square Feet

By the time we return to the Chesapeake, we will have spent nearly 5 months living in a 260-sq-ft floating home. Freedom is 32′ long with a 12′ beam. Subtract the side decks from the beam, and the interior width is about 10′. She carries that 10′ width from the stern forward about 20′ So figure that’s 10 x 20 = 200 sq feet. The next 12′ of length narrows down to a point at the bow, so figure it’s effectively 12′ x 5′ wide on average. So another 60 sq. ft, for a total of 260 square feet. Don’t forget, you can get a look at a Legacy 32 online. www.legacyyachts.com/models/legacy-32

I am amazed at how comfortable it is:

  • The cabin – down 4 steps from the helm – is all natural cherry, with excellent joinery. Cabin sole is classic teak-and-holly.
    • Centerline queen berth in the bow, with a comfortable hybrid latex/memory foam mattress, hanging locker for jackets, and plenty of storage for clothes.
    • Galley with microwave, induction cooktop, electric freezer, refrigerator, coffee maker, and plenty of storage for food and supplies.
    • A roomy head with separate shower compartment, and a great showerhead that delivers gallons of hot water.
  • Up at the helm (or cockpit), a completely enclosed helm station with a huge windshield and 360-degree visibility for docking
    • Windshield wipers with washers: essential for salt spray
    • Opening windshield and side windows; overhead hatches for additional ventilation
    • Chartplotter, radar, depth sounder, speedometer, and VHF radio.
    • Plus a separate screen for engine diagnostics
    • Bow and stern thrusters operated by joysticks
    • Adjustable pilot and navigator seats covered in cream ultra-leather
  • In the salon, aft of the helm, are two facing lounges that convert to berths if desired. Also ultra-leather
  • Helm and salon floor is natural teak
  • Cabin, cockpit and salon are heated / air conditioned
  • A comfortable after deck with two chairs
  • Tables for salon and after deck
  • Wide side decks and foredeck with chrome guardrails for safety
  • Teak swim platform with swim ladder
  • Inflatable dinghy with electric outboard (no messy gasoline or oil)
  • It’s a strong boat:
    • 16,000 pounds displacement
    • A powerful 5.9 liter Cummins diesel with turbo
    • Keel with skeg to protect prop and rudder
    • 50-amp shore power with inverter for 120-volt power
    • 12-volt power from the generator
  • Plenty of storage below decks. We have everything stored in clear plastic waterproof bins that are labeled. Since I am single-handling, I cannot be fumbling around looking for dock lines or anything else I might need.

Which brings us back to the fact that she is mighty, but she is still small. EVERYTHING has to be kept in its place: binoculars, sunglasses, reading glasses, phone, even cigars and lighters. Misplaced items are a nuisance when you’re docked, and dangerous underway. Boy, I wish I would actually practice what I preach!

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Sorry if this ended up reading like a sales brochure. I simply mean it to be a testament to how much comfort and utility we are enjoying in less than 300 square feet of space.

Off the Air/ On the Air

Sorry we were off the air for a few days…we went back to Captiva for a couple of days. I just love the beach there!~

We crashed at Connie’s place, and we had a great time on the beach and at several fun restaurants.

My favorite was the Mucky Duck…

It’s right on the beach in Captiva…you sit in rocking chairs and watch the surf as you eat and drink. Check out their Beach-Cam on their website, and you’ll get an idea of the view! Copy this address and load it into your browser: http://theduck.axiscam.net:8000/axis-cgi/mjpg/video.cgi?resolution=800×450&dummy=1613074492905.

Anyway, we’re back in Key West, and I cannot believe we have just 11 days left before we leave.

I’ve already started a “punch list” of everything we have to get done before we leave:

  • haircut
  • vet visit
  • bank to stock up on quarters and $5 bills
  • install new refrigerator
  • re-provision
  • finalize route
  • make marina reservations
  • etc., etc., etc.

I’ve enjoyed my time in Florida, and I am now looking forward to getting home.