There is another boat in the marina named Freedom. The one that is NOT mine is 155′ long. It’s hard to get a sense of scale in this photograph, but she is a seriously big boat.

Freedom tows a 40′ boat behind her, to act as her tender. Amazing…her tender is 25% longer than my boat. I have a nice boat, but being with these huge yachts is truly humbling.

Anyway, here’s the kindness part: the large Freedom is owned by a lovely patrician couple from Newport. Both of them trim and handsome. Ditto for the couple who serve as their captain and crew, who are also attractive and fit. Guinness plays every day with the owner’s dog Moose, and the dogs really get along well.

On Christmas Day, about 3PM, the woman who owns the yacht sent over a complete Christmas dinner for me to enjoy. All home-cooked by her crew. The turkey was tender and moist, the beans were cooked perfectly, the rolls were melt-in-your mouth fresh, and the gravy tasted of sage and fennel. Wow! When I thanked them, they just said “We enjoy doing things like that.”

Then yesterday evening, the lovely young couple next door invited me over for Chinese take-out. Perfect!

They are planning to sail around the world with the baby!

All in all, an amazing Christmas Day.

Today – Christmas Day – I decided it would be a nice, quiet day to visit the Hemingway Home and Museum.

Here’s some background (and some photos) I purloined from Wikipedia…

The residence was constructed in 1851 in a French Colonial style by wealthy marine architect and salvager Asa Tift.

Incidentally, at the time, salvagers were the wealthiest people in Key West, and salvaging made Key West the wealthiest city in the US (on a per capita basis).

From 1931 to 1939, the house was inhabited by Hemingway and his wife Pauline Pfeiffer. They restored the decaying property and made several additions. During his time at the home, Hemingway wrote some of his best received works, including the non-fiction work Green Hills of Africa (1935), the 1936 short stories “The Snows of Kilimanjaro” and “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber“, and the novels To Have And Have Not(1937) and Islands in the Stream (1970).^[

If you note the late publication date for Islands in the Stream, it’s because the manuscript was discovered in the house after Hemingway’s death.

Here’s a shot of Ernest and Pauline that I found online. It looks like fun.

In 1939, Hemingway moved to Cuba.

After their divorce and Hemingway’s suicide, the house was auctioned off and subsequently converted into a private museum in 1964. On November 24, 1968, it was designated a National Historic Landmark.

As I walked home, I passed Sloppy Joe’s Bar, Hemingway’s favorite saloon in Key West. Hemingway and Joe Russell were friends and fishing buddies for more than 12 years.

So, of course I stopped in for a beer. And of course the bartender was from Annapolis. (12 noon on Christmas Day, and the place was packed.) I love Key West.

I’d like to begin my Christmas post with thanks to all of you for your comments on the blog, as well as your emails and texts.

I don’t respond to the comments for technical reasons – the program makes me log in every time, and it is a needlessly hinky process.

But I read every one, and I appreciate them all.

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I’m glad we decided to stay in Key West for a month.  It’s given me a chance to relax, catch up on some deferred maintenance, and simply enjoy the weather.

There’s a cold front coming in tonight, however – it’s supposed to be the coldest weather Key West can expect this winter – Christmas Day will be a high of 65 and a low of 54, and blowing 30 knots from the north..  Not bad by Pennsylvania standards, but a big change for Key West, where it has been mid-70’s every day.

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Colder weather notwithstanding, I have to say that there’s something “off “about listening to the radio station playing “Frosty the Snowman” in Key West. It’s just wrong for so many reasons! A creche would look more appropriate amidst the palm trees…kind of like Bethlehem looked.

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Anyway, it’s still Christmas.  Like many of you, I’m planning to go to church tonight – a beautiful church called The Basilica of St. Mary of the Sea.  We passed it on one of our walks around Key West.

I am thinking of and praying for every one of you.  And I am wishing you a Blessed Christmas and a happy and HEALTHY and BETTER New Year.

Merry Christmas from me and Guinness! WOW, I still look exhausted!

I’m taking advantage of a quiet day to post more photos of the Dry Tortugas.

As you recall, we left at 7 AM:

It was a 3-1/2 hour run out to the Dry Tortugas. Mostly out of sight of land. You pretty much leave Key West and keep heading west for another 68 miles.

It’s incredible sight – a brick fort built almost 70 miles west of Key West – absolutely in the middle of nowhere. Here’s how it looks as it begins to take shape on the horizon:

Here from 1 mile away.

Here’s a drone shot I copied off a poster:

Wikipedia tells me it is the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere,^[4][5] and is composed of more than 16 million bricks. Crazy.

The appeal for us was more the outing than the fort. Beautiful beaches, clear water, lots of conch shells…some of them huge:

We did some snorkeling and some swimming. Saw a cuttlefish…fish real one I’ve ever seen:

A helluva day at sea! Beautiful conditions, crystal clear waters. Guinness ran on the beach; we walked and snorkeled. Saw a 7′ Goliath Grouper. Right under the boat. It swam up and opened its mouth, as though it were looking to be fed. I held tight to Guinness’ float coat!

Some folks come by seaplane; some by ferry. That’s Freedom at anchor; we came ashore in the dinghy.

Here’s a secret selfie that Jane took, while I was relaxing and Steve was at the wheel.

Back at Key West by 6PM. Just in time for sunset!

With Christmas quickly approaching, we’re almost halfway into the trip.  Perhaps it’s time for introspection…

So, this post is going to be more personal reflection and less travelogue.   I‘ve been thinking about it for some time, and I hesitated about publishing it; but I’ve decided to go ahead and put it out there.

I have to admit that – at the beginning – I wasn’t sure where this voyage was headed.  Something was compelling me to go, but at times, I felt like I was sailing into a void.  

I was concerned that I could slide into abject dissolution, and that they’d find me lying in a gutter next to some bar in Key West.  I have been known in the past to exhibit a certain predilection for self-abuse.

On the other hand, I could come back sober and in the best shape of my life.

Or it’s possible, I suppose, that I may not come back at all… As Jimmy Buffet famously said: “Where it all ends, I can’t fathom my friends.  If I knew, I might throw out my anchor.” 

One of you – I forget who – said that I am the poster boy for “life goes on.”  I suppose it’s true, to a certain extent.  And I’m grateful to my family and my friends and my therapists, all of whom helped me move on.  Some of you (you know who you are) were friends AND therapists.

Above all, though: I HAD TO move on.  After Cathy’s death, the things that had once seemed important, no longer felt that way.  My career.  My home.  I just didn’t care about them anymore.

So – with apologies to Van Morrison – at times, this felt like a trip “Into the Mystic”:

• I’m not sure WHERE we’re going
• I’m not sure WHY we’re going
• I’m not sure WHEN we’re going to get there
• I’m not even sure if we’re coming back

With the passage of time, however, I definitely feel a sense of purpose.  It stuck me in Brunswick, GA – after the prop was successfully repaired – that I was excited to go back to the place where I made a mistake and do it over correctly.  And move on.  Get to the next port of call.  A new destination every day.  

Clearly, I must also recognize that this journey is a reflection of my own approach to life: I have ALWAYS needed a plan.  I have always needed to know where I am headed.  And I am very discontented with complacency.  I have always needed a new challenge.  Just look at my career path:  I liked to apply my skills to new categories and channels.  Food was fun, what about cosmetics?  Domestic business was fun, what about international?  OK, that was fun.  What about Mergers and Acquisitions? What about start-ups? What else sounds interesting?”  A year to figure out the new business; a year to fix it; and a year to enjoy it.  Then a new challenge.  I once told Cathy that I wanted these words inscribed on my tombstone: “What’s Next?”

And – of course – this is a voyage of healing.  I think about Cathy every day.  But not constantly – the navigating consumes almost all my attention.  But I think of her frequently every day.  And every time I do, I say a prayer for her happiness. And for her forgiveness.

I began this trip full of regrets about the things I didn’t say to Cathy.  And the things I didn’t do.  And – yes – the things I shouldn’t have done or said.

But with time and distance – if you’re lucky – you come to a more balanced view of the amazing life you had together.  

I know she was a gift.  God put her in my path for a reason.

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But let’s move away from the metaphysical…

It’s also just a great trip.  I am 76 years old, and I am doing something I always wanted to do.  Cruise the ICW.  I don’t know how many good years I have left.  5? 10?  But I am still healthy – body and mind.  

And you know our motto here at camp:  Clean Mind.  Clean Body.  

Take Your Pick

[Thank you, Alan Sherman]

The good news is: I’m certainly glad I did it. The sense of accomplishment; the independence that comes from being literally in charge of my own voyage; the sheer pleasure of clear aqua waters and warm breezes.

I’m so happy to know that – no matter how this ends – I will look back with gratitude having done it, rather than looking back with regret and wishing I HAD done it.

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On a side note, I’ve decided not to go to the Bahamas this year.  The issue revolves around Guinness: they are experiencing a screwworm epidemic; infected dogs are just put down.  The risk of his being quarantined when we return is increased. The risks are simply not worth the reward.

So I’m now thinking we’ll be home in March.  If our luck holds.

Many more miles to go…many more adventures lie ahead.  Keep me in your thoughts and prayers.  You are ALL in mine.

Here’s a photo of Freedom with a “Christmas Tree” of lights.

Since then, I’ve lit the running lights, so I have a “Christmas Star” at the top of the tree. As you can see, my dock mates have also decorated their boats. This was the last warm day. Since then, we’ve had 65 degrees with cold winds from the north. Expected to continue next week. Good days for maintenance projects.

I’d like to wish all of you a very happy holiday season. Let’s be grateful for the people in our lives. Present and departed. Merry Christmas!

I was hoping to send some sunny photos to warm you up, but the Internet is SOOO SLOW! Cannot even get the photos to AIR Drop from my phone. So text only, I’m afraid.

Guinness went to the vet yesterday – got his shots updated. He is still making friends wherever he goes. But – regrettably – he is still attacking the darn chickens, so he must be leashed. He hates it, but I can’t trust him. He really goes for the kill.

This morning, I cleaned and re-installed the windshield washers. It sounds trivial, but your eyes really are your most important navigational aid. If you don’t have washers, the windows can get streaked with salt.

This afternoon, the temperature dropped 20 degrees with cloudy skies and a 15-knot wind from the N – gusting to 20. BRRR. Welcome to Florida. So glad we went to the Dry Tortugas while we had a weather window!

I figured it was a good day to clean the bilges. Nasty work, and no one will see it but me. But strangely gratifying, nevertheless.

I’ve also started planning our trip up to Florida’s west coast. Our first leg will be almost due north to Everglades City, and I’ve already booked an airboat ride through the Everglades! I’ve always wanted to do that. Can’t pass up the opportunity.

So, tonight I am treating myself with a prime filet, baked potato, and salad. Guinness, I’m afraid, gets kibble as usual, but I add flavored toppers. YUM!

Also, I just heard that my new cushions will arrive while I’m here in Key West. That will be a nice Christmas present. The old ones are showing quite a bit of wear.

5:30 now – time to feed the hound. Hope you all are warm and safe.

It’s 6:45 AM, and we are setting out for the Dry Tortugas with Steve and Jane aboard. The trip will take us about 3-1/2 hours Northwest. There’s an abandoned fort there, but we’re going just for fun.

Strange name: Dry Turtles? I wonder if there is a Wet Tortugas somewhere in the world.

Gotta go. Leaving at sunrise (now).

We plan to be back just in time to catch the sunset.

I could get used to this.

I feel as though I am starting to settle in now. I have found a nice comfortable bar where I can just “hang out”. Note that we still must were masks. That just adds to the mystery.

And I am taking care of my health by staying hydrated.

I’m joking, of course. Surprisingly, we have not yet made it to Mallory Square for the famous nightly Sundown Ritual, nor have we actually set foot in any of the Duval Street bars. We’ve been enjoying the prettier parts of town during the day and having a glass (bottle) of wine on the boat in the evening. If you are reading this blog, then you know me; and I know you are scoffing in disbelief. But it’s true!

We just got $250 in groceries, water and wine delivered right to the boat. I don’t mind shopping for smaller, lighter items, but having the heavy items delivered is a blessing.

PLUS, the dock master just brought me $300 worth of cigars, sent to me by my friend Larry Brotzge.

AND my Amazon order just arrived (tubing for windshield washers).

AND remember I mentioned laundry service? Here is the mark of a life well-lived:

Can you imagine how good it feels to get EVERYTHING clean again? We did some “catch-up” loads at our family stops on the way down, but this was BOW to STERN. Aaahhhh!

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We’re also making friends with some of the other boaters. Last night, we were invited to have dinner on an adjacent boat, by Steve and Jane, a couple who own a restaurant in Beach Haven NJ. “Home cooked” food. Porterhouse prime steak. Really!

They just sailed back from Panama…hmmm. Maybe that’s next?

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Guinness actually requires more settling-in and more maintenance than I do. I could probably just hang out by the pool and the beach all day. But Guinness isn’t allowed on the resort property per se, so he needs a different regimen: morning and evening walks; visits to the dog park so that he can get exercise by running with other dogs; a beach for swimming. And we are hooking him up with a vet and a groomer.

There is not a lot of grass in Key West, so we are doing a LOT of walking to address his needs. I think we can eventually get into a nice rhythm of walking to the east side of the Key for sunrise, and going to Mallory Square or to the huge park on the west side of the Key for sunset. About a 4-mile round trip each.

All things considered, Guinness may provide some much-needed structure and exercise. Here’s a shot of our little guy – all tuckered out after a morning at Dog Beach. It’s a small beach on the east side of the island, where he does not need to be leashed. When he curls up like this, he’s just 18″ long. So how come at night he takes up half the berth?

The water here in our slip is about 12′ deep, and clear down to about 5′. This morning, a beautiful tarpon materialized in the adjacent slip.which is empty.

He just hovered there, about a foot below the surface. We measured him by pacing along the dock – he was 7′ long. Yikes. Of course the photo doesn’t do him justice. He is longer than I am tall!

The white wiggles lines in the water are reflected boat masts.

We tried to get him to eat bread or kibble, but he wasn’t interested.

There is a boardwalk all around the harbor, which is called the Key West Bight, and you can see tarpon swimming by. But this guy was the biggest I’ve ever seen.

I went fishing for tarpon years ago on a trip to Florida. As they are feeding, they “roll” their backs up – rather like a dolphin does. It lets you realize how big they are. If you hook one, they put up one heck of a fight, leaping completely out of the water. It can take 45 minutes to bring them to the boat. When you bring them aboard, they look almost prehistoric, because their scales are like plates.