Tonight, we are at the prestigious Larchmont Yacht Club. Founded in 1880, this establishment is the essence of elegance and tradition (and not a bit stodgy). The membership list reads like Who’s Who of Yachting: past members include German Kaiser Wilhelm, financiers W.K.Vanderbilt and J.P.Morgan, and Sir Thomas Lipton, the perennial challenger for the America’s Cup.
It is still housed in the original building from 1888:
If there is any downside, it is that we will be on a mooring, so we will have no Internet and NO AIR CONDITIONING! Excessive heat warning today. I hope we have a breeze on the water!
I am going to publish this post while we are still in Stamford with good Wi-Fi.
On Thursday morning, we will leave early, speed down the East River, past the Statue of Liberty, out through NY Harbor, and down to the Manasquan Inlet, where we lay over for two days at my ancestral summer home on the Metedeconk River. A chance to visit with my brother Tom; a college classmate; and an old childhood friend.
I’ll send a brief post when we’re safely tucked in at Metedeconk. I’ll have to use my phone as a hot spot; Tommy does not have WiFi! A true Luddite!
Roger Clarke and I worked together at Colgate-Palmolive in 1970. It was – in both cases – our first job as a new MBA from Wharton. Many years later, I introduced him to his wife, Lynn.
He has a fierce intellect, an amazing breath ok interests, and an exceptional ability to recall specific facts and data points to support his views. He met me at 3PM, and we talked for 5-1/2 hours. Not about trivia. About life. He inspired mr to learn more about the Bhagavad Vita. Putting it crassly, I think I have passed through the first two stages of life: 1) education; 2} marriage and the accumulation of material things. I am now in the third stage: the search for religious truth. The fourth stage is Enlightenment. That’s a lofty goal.
Incidentally, he is a staunch Republican and I am a Leftie. We still enjoy each other’s company.
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Tonight, we have a stop in Larchmont, NY to visit someone we met on the way up to Maine. Should be another nice day.
This is a beautiful resort, and I really love the staff. Both the dock attendants and the wait staff in the restaurant couldn’t be nicer. They all remember Guinness and make a big fuss over him. It’s a very comfortable visit after so much time alone.
Here’s the little lighthouse that guards the entrance to their marina:
The weather today is very unsettled. It teases us with a bit of sun, and then turns gray and cold. I’m expecting better weather this rest of the week.
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I managed to get two important tasks accomplished on the trip over from Montauk:
Asked my Neurologist to refill my prescription, so that I can pick it up during my stop in Greenwich. I’m running low, and my friends Roger and Lynn can pick it up for me.
Made an appointment with my Dermatologist for a complete head-to-toe checkout when I return.
There is also a box of cigars waiting for me in Greenwich. Good thing. I am out, and I’ve resorted to cigarettes. YUCK!
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We had a very nice evening with some new friends…a group of guys who keep their boats at Saybrook Point. I managed to kill a nice bottle of Albarino by myself.
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We left late on Tuesday morning – deliberately. I’ve had their bagels and lox before, and I had to have it again. No wonder I’m getting fat!
I am publishing this post a day late…Wifi issues, of course
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We left Cuttyhunk this morning accompanied by gray skies and showers. It’s so fortunate that last night was clear and perfect for the fireworks.
There were some nasty swells for the first hour, and I was seriously considering hitting the “Contingency” button, and ducking into Block Island. I find that I am growing tired of rough passages. I can do them, and the boat can do them, but I just don’t feel like it any more. Maybe I just need some rest.
But the Windy App predicted that the swells would diminish during the second half of our trip, and that’s what happened, just as we were approaching Block Island. So we kept going, and I’m glad we did.
The seas laid down to the point where I actually finished a novel during the last 2 hours, looking up from time to time to ensure there were no whales or other boats in my path.
And Montauk is FUN. It’s a big sports fishing venue, and it’s at the very tip of Long Island. As you look north, east, or south, there is nada.
They may be guilty of a little hyperbole, but…hey…
However, there’s a place called Gosman’s Pier all along the western side of the jetty. They have everything from a commercial fishing pier, to very nice gift shops, to a very nice restaurant.
I’m glad we came. I haven’t been here for probably 40 years, and I forgot about Gosman’s Pier.
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Here’s where WE had lunch…
I was happy to pay $8 for a clam roll – I haven’t seen once since I moved from Connecticut 30 years ago! And they were asking $35 for a 5″ lobster roll in Boothbay Harbor! I talked to one of the lobstermen, and he said they were getting almost $8 a pound at “boat Price” (what HE gets paid.) He said it’s at a record high. All that fora tough, tasteless piece of a crustacean. I am sooo over lobster!
Meanwhile, Guinness loved the beaches. See how much calmer the ocean got as the day proceeded?
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Montauk is a pivotal stop on this voyage of exploration. Beginning today, we had to put away our New England charts and Waterway Guides and switch to the NJ/NY/Long Island Sound charts. Beginning tomorrow, we’re back in familiar waters – Long Island Sound, and we are truly on our way home.
Our destination tomorrow is Saybrook Point, at the mouth of the Connecticut River. I enjoyed it so much on the way up, that I decided to stop there again.
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As I prepare to post these thoughts, it occurs to me that I need a memorable sign-off / tagline, don’t you agree? TTFN doesn’t really get it.
Maybe something about the journey, or the adventure, or the sailing?
Please submit your entries via Comment or email.. The winner will see his/her tagline at the end of each new post.
OK, so we rolled into Cuttyhunk Harbor this morning, and it was PACKED:
The marina was full, every mooring was taken, and some folks were anchored. One of the mooring balls had three boats attached. That is permissible here, but I hadn’t seen it before. It was quite a scene…one guy fell overboard trying to push his boat off another. A real circus.
After cruising through the entire mooring field, we managed to snag the VERY LAST MOORING BALL! it’s in the Outer Harbor, so we’re doing a little rocking and rolling, but I’m stillll happy. Probably better to be away from the madness.
This is one of my favorite harbors. We first visited it last year during Covid Lockdown, and I was struck by its simple, natural beauty. We deployed the dinghy, and I took Guinness ashore for some exercise. As I remembered, nothing but dune grass, beach plum, rosa rugosa, scrubby trees, and views of distant islands. So peaceful.
There is very little commercial development here – some houses snuggled into the dunes, but no real town. Here’s a photo of the only place to buy lunch:
So, we say to the girl at the lunch place: “Wow, the harbor’s really crowded!” And the guy next to me in line say, “Oh, Yeah. It’s Fireworks Weekend… I had to make my slip reservation back in January!”
Fireworks Weekend in August? Who knew?
This year, we also found a small farmer’s market, and we bought some greens, tomatoes, and ground beef. Sounds like a cookout on the grill tonight. The (gas) grill is mounted right on the stern, but we rarely get to use it, because open fires aren’t permitted in marinas.
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For lunch, we had “Stuffies”, which are like crab cakes only made from clams, served in a real Quahog shell. FUN!
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We have a few chores this afternoon: top off the oil, etc. Then we’ll take another walk along the beach dunes.
After that, my main concern is how Guinness will handle the fireworks. Last time he was near them, they were about a mile away, as they are tonight, and he was petrified. So scared I thought I would have to take him to the emergency room.
I think I will give him some of my Gabapentin in raw hamburger to calm him down. Waiting for a text from my wonderful Vet to tell me how much I should give him.
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A man came by in a Whaler to collect the mooring rental fee, and he pointed out that we are two boats away from the fireworks barge! And the wind will blow the ashes away from us. I think we are in for quite a show!
On Cooey’s advice, I gave Guinness 750 mg of Gabapentin. That’s all I can do…
The waves and wakes have died down, although the wind is still blowing briskly (maybe 12 knots). For now, just enjoying a beautiful evening at Cuttyhunk!
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The fireworks were first-class, but I didn’t bother taking pictures. Once you’ve seen them at Longwood Gardens, you’re spoiled.
A Guinness was fine. He just hid out in the shower until it was over; then he hopped in bed with me.
We’re now in Sandwich; all pumped out and re-fueled. It was another GORGEOUS day on the water. I’m so glad we laid up to avoid the miserable weather yesterday.
And Sandwich is a very pleasant surprise…
The tidal current in the Cape Cod Canal can run pretty strong at the tide changes, but once you pull into the marina here, it all calms down. The marina entrance is somewhat narrow, but it opens up to a lollipop shape.
PLUS, there’s a great restaurant just across the street.
PLUS, as we approached the east entrance to the Canal (heading west) we noticed a beautiful sand beach that appeared to be walking distance from the marina. And it was…there’s a very nice walking path that leads along the canal to the beach. Guinness loved the beach. He ran and swam. haven’t seen a sand beach the entire time we were in Maine. And I don’t think we have swum together since Key West.
We are both knackered from the hiking and the swimming. Guinness is napping, and I feel like napping. But I have to wash the boat.
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Well, I did manage to squeeze in a nap. Apparently, I did sleep, because the cute little dock attendants told me that their friend lost the tip of her finger while helping a boat dock, and that there had been ambulances at the marina during the time Guinness and I were napping.
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Guinness took another walk and another swim. The water is very clear here, and not too cold. The sky is cloudless today, and it turns the water the deepest blue – ink-dark. Just an amazingly beautiful day. I have to stop thinking about what’s next, and just BE HERE NOW.
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It’s now 6PM on Friday night, and this place has exploded. The canal banks are crowded with folks waiting for the sunset, and the restaurant where we had lunch is so busy that they’re not taking Take-Out orders! Plus, people are showing up on many of the boats in the marina.
I am starting to worry that Cuttyhunk will be a circus, and that all the weekenders are already there. Oh, well. No sense worrying about things we can’t control. And if all the slips and moorings are full, I have a contingency plan – Hadley Harbor.
I’m sitting in the Captains’ Lounge, waiting for the Wash Cycle to finish, and I strike up a conversation with the guy who runs the marina launch. I mention my need for a marina Friday night, and he says, “Why don’t you go to Sandwich? It’s a little farther than Plymouth, but it will position you for a quick trip through the Cape Cod Canal.”
So I jump on the Dockwa App and request a reservation. I move the wash to the dryer, take Guinness for a walk, and by the time we return, I have a confirmation on the reservation. It turns out that Sandwich is a TINY harbor just inside the canal entrance. I can hardly find it on the chart, and I never would have found it without his suggestion!
I’s a manageable 5-hour trip from here, and the Windy App predicts winds <5 knots and swells <1 foot! We’ll blow right past Boston Harbor!
Then on Saturday morning, leaving Sandwich, it’s just a 1-1/2 hr trip to Cuttyhunk. I’ll just hope for an open mooring ball! With luck, I’ll have all day to enjoy the beaches and dune paths on Cutty.
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It’s 12:30, and I now have both routes planned and charted. Good to go.
And I’ve had time for a 2nd and 3rd cup of coffee. What a pleasant break from my normal time-compressed morning routine!
Time for a sandwich on my last two slices of bread.
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Somehow, it has now gotten to be 4:30. Where does the day go?
Well, part of it was grocery shopping. The nearest market is about a one-mile walk. Fun on the way over…drudgery on the way back! (Includes a gallon jug of water). Whew!
Well, here we are, stuck in Plymouth by a full day of rain, fog, and (according to the Windy App) 4′ ocean swells. I just didn’t feel like facing it, so I cancelled my reservation in Plymouth for tonight. Fortunately, they agreed that the conditions were bad enough to issue a full refund. UNfortunately, they are overbooked for tomorrow night, so I have to scramble to find another marina. I want to be positioned to hit the Cape Cod Canal early on Saturday – hoping I can grab a mooring in Cuttyhunk Harbor (it’s first-come, first-served).
I had planned on two days in Cuttyhunk, so I will waive my second day to make up time and keep my other scheduled reservations. Too bad; I love Cuttyhunk. But I LOVE my foresight: I plan a layover about every 7 days to allow for unexpected delays.
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Here’s a photo of what it looks like on a boat on a rainy day: wet towels drying everywhere; a wet dog lying on his blanket; foul weather gear hanging from the overhead grab rails. You can see the fog through the window. And the boat is rolling uncomfortably; probably from the ocean swells reaching into the harbor. It’s not from boat wakes, because no one is moving!
But we got the laundry done, and we are re-charging ALL the electronics (shavers, hand vac, laptop, phone, etc.). Wires everywhere. Perfect. Later we’ll check the oil, coolant, transmission fluid, etc. Not a bad day.
And there’s a restaurant in town that serves Gyros, if I feel like walking a half-mile in the rain. What the heck…I have to walk Guinness again later anyway.
Since the Wi-Fi is excellent here, I’ll try to post a few more photos to my earlier posts, and I want to create one just for our visit to Pulpit Harbor (one of the highlights of this trip.
Salem is FUN! A town built on fortunes made in shipbuilding and by sea captains trading around the world. Some house carry historical markers dating them from the 1600’s!
There is a lovely Common in the center of town, surrounded by stately homes.
PLUS, witch motifs everywhere…and a memorial to the Salem Watch Trials.
PLUS, the House of the Seven Gables and the house in which Nathanial Hawthorne was born. They are clustered together in a beautiful waterfront site with other historic buildings and stunning gardens.
Here’s an image you don’t see everyday: Freedom parked almost right in front of the House of the Seven Gables!
Isn’t it beautiful? Painstakingly restored and perfectly maintained.
Here’s Hawthorne’s birthplace. Charming, no?
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For you die-hard nautical fans, the trip over was amazing. We had planned to go around Cape Ann, rather than taking the Annisquan River Canal, as we did on the way up. Cape Ann is one of the massive formations that juts out into the Atlantic, and I was concerned that this might expose us to rougher sea conditions, but the ocean was like glass. We cruised for almost 3 hours on Autopilot and never touched the wheel!
The only problem: still no pumpout.
Harbormaster: “Yes, the pumpout boat does run Wednesdays an Saturdays from 3-6.”
Me: “It’s Wednesday! Oh, Good!”
Harbormaster: “Let me check the schedule and see how many boats are already scheduled… Oh, it’s not running tonight. We don’t have an operator.”
Me: “Oh, s____!” Really.
Contrast this situation with our marina in Key West, where they could pump you out right at your slip!
Oh well, no biggie. We’ll get it done in Plymouth, our next stop…Home of Plymouth Rock!
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BTW, since we finally have decent Wi-Fi, I may go back and insert some photos in earlier posts. I note that I have to go all the way back to my Newport post. I’ll start with the most recent and work in reverse chronological order.
Rod & Guinness' Amazing Adventures 