Heading Home

Our long week of R&R in Sarasota has come to an end. I am grateful that I was able to watch the Inauguration with Mel and Bonni, and to talk with them about the problems and the possibilities that lie ahead. They are smart and well-informed, and I enjoyed our conversations.

It’s also very nice to be with old friends. They know all your shortcomings, and they tolerate you anyway.

Sarasota is the apogee of our trip: from this point on, every move we make will be along a homeward path. True, we will be returning to Key West, so that is farther south, but it is nevertheless our homeward route.

At one point, we were planning to cut across the middle of the state via the Okeechobee Canal, but someone asked me why I was planning to return to the north around March 1…when the weather can still be nasty? I thought about it and realized that – because we cancelled the Bahamas over health concerns for both me and Guinness – we could spend another month in Florida. So, we’re simply going back to Key West instead.

Today we’re heading 20 miles south to Venice via the ICW, to spend the day with Sue and Jim DiCarlo, friends from Heshey’s Mill. We are in the Hershey’s Mill Singers together. I’ll stay in Venice tonight. At this moment – 8 AM – we are waiting for a dense fog to burn off. I am told that this is very unusual for Sarasota.

It may work out very well, however…Guinness made a new friend last night (Natalie) while we were waiting for our take-out order at the marina restaurant. Natalie (she’s Russian, so really Natalia) is going to come along on the Venice leg. Just for fun. And Natalie likes to sleep late, so we can let her sleep while the fog burns off. We expect to see her about 11, unless she changes her mind. It will be nice to have human company for a change.

Tomorrow – Sunday – we’ll take an outside route leaving Venice, swing back inside at Boca Grande, and return for a couple more days at South Seas Resort on Captiva. I met someone there on my last visit that I’d like to get to know better, and it’s a great spot for Guinness: lots of grass and beaches.

I guess that’s it for now. Time to get the boat ready for departure.

A New Beginning

What a wonderful day yesterday was! Bydon’s inauguration.

I was sitting around talking to my friend Mel yesterday, and we both felt the same: better than we had in years.

And not just emotionally, but actually physically better, as if a great weight had been lifted from our shoulders.

I am inspired by Mel and Bonni, who are social activists.

I made a poster for the house: BYEDON

Sarasota 2

Well, good morning everyone. It is Tuesday, January 19, and we are safe and sound in Sarasota Florida. Mel and Bonni Harner have been friends of ours since we lived in Connecticut in the late 1970s, so that’s over 40 years. I find that just amazing.

I also find it amazing that January is more than halfway gone. We’ve been on the road for 2 1/2 months, and I feel as though I am getting cumulatively tired. I am really looking forward to spending several days here with Mel & Bonni and just resting.

Sarasota represents the turnaround point for this entire trip. The path of our route looks like a fish hook, with the barb facing the west. From now on will be on our way back, although not with a great deal of urgency.

We have friends in Venice that I hope to meet with, then back to South Seas resort on Captiva for a couple of days, and then back to Key West for another month. At that point, we will be close to the end of February, and if we take a month going north, it will get us home around April 1. 

As you probably know, Sarasota is a beautiful town with lots of interesting attractions. We will probably get to see some of them, and if we do I will post, but I think I’m going to take a couple days off from the blog and just simply regroup: do some laundry, re-provision the boat, get Guinness groomed, and let him enjoy some grass under his feet. 

So please excuse me if I am not posting every day, but know that I am safe and dry and resting.

Love to you all

Redfish Pass

South Seas Island Resort is at the northern tip of Captiva Island. On the east, its beaches face the Gulf of Mexico; on the west, Pine Island Sound. The island at this end is maybe 1/2 mile across. At the northern tip, a narrow channel called Redfish Pass separates Captiva and North Captiva Islands. It was once a single island, until a hurricane cut a pass between the two.

The waterway guides urge extreme caution, because Redfish Pass is subject to constant shifts and shoaling — local knowledge is essential. So when I was in Everglades City, I called the dockmaster at South Seas to inquire. His advice was short and sweet: “Ignore your paper charts. Ignore your chart plotter. Download the diagram from our website and commit to it totally. If you do, it’s no problem.”

Well, he was right. There is a straight, deep channel right down the middle, marked by three buoys. You align yourself with the first buoy, set your course due east, and you do not waver until you pass the last buoy. Waves are breaking over the shoals on either side of you. Somewhat anxiety-inducing, but in fact, no problem.

Anyway, we slept 12 hours last night: 7:30 to 7:30. Cumulative exhaustion, I suppose. I lay down listening to my playlist on low volume and woke up 8 hours later with it still playing. Then slept another 4 hours.

I knew today was going to have some harsh conditions, so we walked to the bay side to have a look. We were met with a beautiful sunrise over calm seas on the Sound. What the heck?

We then headed for the Gulf side so that Guinness could get in a run on the beach. We were met with totally different conditions: 15-knot winds; 4-foot seas; a 10-degree drop in temperature. Seas are forecast to go to 8 feet. Guinness loved it; he was invigorated. But it was definitely blowing.

We walked over to look at Redfish Pass under today’s conditions. I looked at it and marveled that we had actually passed through it yesterday (under much better conditions.) I was very impressed that the entire channel is surrounded by white water – waves breaking, marking the shallow water.

**********************

We’re now back from exploring the island. A nice 6-mile walk. We are staying in the marina at South Seas Plantation. I was here years ago on a business boondoggle, and I was curious to know if it was as beautiful as I remembered. It certainly is. We’ll stop here again on our return loop.

Catch-Up 2

Well, a lot has happened since we left Key West. The leg from Key West to Everglades City was our longest so far – 6 hours, with the 4 in the middle out of the sight of land and in a thin fog. We actually had to put the radar on. Fortunately, there were no other boats around. Just us, for 4 hours. Totally dependent on our instruments.

But everything went OK, and we tied up at the Rod & Gun Club at 1 PM. You’ve seen the photos of the classic rooms inside.

The airboat trip was fun. It was not the kind where you sweep over grasses. Instead, we were speeding down natural tunnels through the mangroves. We saw alligators, raccoons, and lots of birds, but the real fun was the high-speed spins and turns. By the way, it was cold that day. I was wearing gloves!

Last night, we met these three rowdy rascals. They get together every year at a different location. They call themselves “Sen-agers” because they are seniors who act like teen-agers.

That evening, I met three women who were having a reunion: one from Virginia, one from Tampa, and one from the Keys. We had a lot of fun drinking and shooting pool.

Needless to say, I was not in very good shape the next day.

Which was too bad, because – as I posted earlier – it was a very rough passage.

But Naples was delightful, and now we are on Captiva Island. Today’s crossing was the opposite of yesterday…brilliant sunshine, 1-foot seas…a perfect ride. From the abusive to the sublime in 24 hours.

We are docked at South Sea island Resort. It is gorgeous. Three miles of property on the Gulf. Everything perfectly manicured and maintained. And dogs are allowed on the beach without leashes. Joy prevailed. EVERYONE loves watching Guinness leap and gambol in the surf. Two dolphins are playing next to my boat as I write this.

PLUS, we ran into some people we met in Key West. We are dog friends.

Rough seas are forecast for the next two days, so it looks like I am stuck here until MLK Day. Poor me.

Along that line, I had kind of an epiphany today. I am always looking at all these people with their beautiful boats, staying in these beautiful resorts, and I realized: Hey! Me too!

More photos to follow. This is cutting into my cocktail time.

Love you all.

R

Catch Up

Hi everyone…we’re in Naples this morning. I need to go back and fill in the last couple of days, but I’m pressed for time this AM – gotta get moving. Here’s a quick update – more to follow.

We left Everglades City yesterday morning and got our brains beat out rounding Cape Romano. If you go back and look at my earlier Everglades post, you can see the chart.

We left Everglades City at 7AM, and when we left the shelter of the Ten Thousand Islands, the Gulf of Mexico was much rougher than we had expected from the forecast. It took us three hours to round Cape Romano. We had to reduce speed for the conditions, and by 10:00 we had barely made it to Marco Island. The chart plotter told me we had another 2 hours to go to reach Captiva, and I just threw in the towel.

That was the first time in the entire trip we aborted a planned passage. Good decision.

We pulled into Marco Island at Capri Pass, turned left, and took the ICW north to Naples. It is a pretty stretch. There’s not much water in this stretch of the ICW (we touched twice), but it was calm and sunny. Very little development. All mangroves and sand.

As an unexpected bonus, we were able to have dinner with Chris, Kim, and Valerie (cousins) at Sea Salt in Naples. Best meal I have had in years. Great company, as well.

Today we are off to Captiva for one night and then on to Sarasota for a week.

Take care. Stay safe.

The Rod & Gun Club

It’s just as advertised: a throwback to Old Florida. Polished mahogany walls and floors; fish and game trophies on the walls; a walk-around fireplace with a huge copper brazier; and a wonderful dining room and screened porch. Just call this Throwback Tuesday.

It’s laid back and quiet: the noisiest sound is the flapping of pelican wings as they take off from the river. AND…They have 50 amp power and the Internet works! Woo-Hoo.

The history of the Club dates back to the first permanent white settler in 1864. In 1922, Barron G. Collier, a banker and railroad man, bought almost all of Southwest Florida, including the Rod & Gun Club, where he hosted international dignitaries and several US Presidents. Since 1972, the Bowen family from Michigan have owned and operated the Club.

Tonight, we’ll check out the classic bar (complete with stuffed sailfish). Tomorrow: Airboat Ride!

On The Road Again

It’s 5AM, and we’re finally getting ready to leave for the Everglades. We need an hour or so to walk and feed the dog, make lunch in advance, and batten down the boat. I expect to leave at first light.

I didn’t sleep much last night. In bed by 9, with an alarm set for 5, and then I lay there wide awake until about 2:30. Not worried or anything. Just wide awake. Like how MSG used to make you feel.

Oh well, at least we’re going.

We’ll be back in touch when we get to the swamps!

Key West Vibe – Another Thought

Joy can come on you unexpectedly, like watching your dog gambol and play. Or simply being at sea with the sun on your back and the wind in your face.

But happiness – I believe – is a mindful decision. I believe you can – and must – simply decide to be happy. And grateful. I know many of you share this point of view.

And it’s one of the most important decisions you can make. It will affect the way you treat others, and the way they respond to you. It will help you deal with setbacks, and even influence your health.

Sorry if this is fatuous or obvious, but Key West seems like a good place to be happy.