Thursday, August 29, 2024

Mystic Seaport will definitely rank as one of the high points of this trip!  We left Mystic Seaport on Sunday morning, and moved 1 mile down the river to the Mystic Downtown Marina, to be closer to the shops and restaurants.

As we left Mystic Seaport, we got one last look at several of the projects underway there, including the maintenance of the Kalmar Nykel, which is based in Wilmington, DE.  We last saw her in 2021 in Chestertown, MD, at the Downrigging festivities.  She’s very distinctive, with a series of brightly painted carved heads decorating her rails and stern.

The yard arms were turned sideways to fit through the bridge.

Lit at night in Chestertown in October, 2021 for the downrigging festival. Wonder if she’ll make it back in time this year?

Mystic proper is a very cute town, with lots of restaurants and shops.  It turns out, however,  that we left Mystic without having a meal from Mystic Pizza.  It may be famous, but the folks we talked to didn’t think too highly of the food!  Instead, we just enjoyed our equally famous Freedom Charcuterie on the boat.

From Mystic CT, we headed south across Long Island Sound to Greenport, NY, on Long Island’s North Fork.  I remembered visiting Greenport with my sailboat about 35 years ago, and I remembered it as charming and authentic.  It did not disappoint.  AND it now has a great Mexican restaurant where we enjoyed lunch. Judging from this sign, it must be a swingin’ place at night!  Unfortunately, our marina had live entertainment and a pizza truck that evening, so we never got to find out for ourselves…

Wednesday morning, we moved across the channel to Shelter Island: specifically Piccozzi’s Marina in Dering Harbor.  

Shelter Island is a much-sought-after retreat, accessible only by ferry.  We were there to have dinner at the Pridwin Hotel, built in 1909, and now owned by Curtis Bashaw, the chap who owns the Virginia Hotel and Congress Hall in Cape May.  He does a first-class job, and the hotel attracts first-class people (at first-class prices)! Curtis is also running for the US Senate seat in New Jersey – you may have seen his ads on tv.

We had scheduled to attend the weekly Wednesday BBQ on the lawn, and it was a lovely event.  Many Porsches in the parking lot.  Many yachts at the dock.

We left Dering Harbor precisely at 8 this morning, seeking to avoid the tidal rips at the mouth of Long Island Sound.  LIS runs generally East-to-West, and it is narrow at each end.  When the tide changes, a LOT of water moves through these openings.  When the wind is against the tide, you get tidal rips.  The effect of the wind against the tide creates a washing machine effect which can be brutal.  Best to be avoided by transiting at slack tide, which we did.  EZ-PZ.

Back on the Connecticut shore, we entered the Connecticut River and cruised past Saybrook Point, where we stayed on the way up to Maine, and continued up the river to Essex, another charming little hamlet best known for the Griswold Inn, or simply “The Griz”.

One of the oldest restaurants in the US, having been run by only six families in its history.

The Gris has one of the largest collections of paintings of ships – covers walls and ceilings.

The bar with a great piano player and popcorn machine….

And a Christmas tree!

Essex is lovely with beautifully maintained colonial homes from the 1700’s with white fences in front. Main Street has beautiful shops and restaurants.

August 23-26, 2024

Lynn here today….

Watch Hill is lovely with 17 miles of sandy beaches, a beautiful hotel named Ocean House. This hotel had fallen into disrepair and was razed on 2004, rebuilt in the same style, and reopened in 2010. We had lunch on the verandah!

AND…then there’s one of Taylor Swift’s amazing properties, closer to the point with a 270 degree view of the ocean and beaches and well protected – security all over the front entrance. We got a good picture from the water, but it is well hidden from the town.

We moved on to Mystic Seaport Museum for two days and I have to say this was one of my favorite parts of the trip. The museum owns the last wooden whaling ship in the world, the Charles W. Morgan, which they have restored and it still sails. Touring the boat and watching them set and furl the sails, as well as the explanation of the whaling process was fascinating. Indulge us as we share these photos.

Every morning they set the sails, weather permitting, and every afternoon they furl them. Four museum employees climb the rigging to furl the square sails on the yards. (They are wearing safety harnesses which the Coast Guard only required starting in 2014!)

The ship would remain under sail at all times unless the weather was so severe they had to derig. The process we watched would take place in 50 mph winds and rough seas without harnesses.

The ship would be manned with about 35 men – women were only allowed as wife or daughter of the captain – but very few women would stay on for the 4 to 5 year trip to sea. Other than the captain and first mates, the others slept in a small area below deck in the front of the ship, next to the blubber room, which had to smell just terrible!

The galley (kitchen)

If you care to know more, here’s an article about life on board. https://www.southcoasttoday.com/story/news/2014/04/20/life-aboard-charles-w-morgan/37026404007/

The next few photos explain the whaling process as the whaling boat is lifted off the side of the ship into the water with two crew members, then four more climb down the pulleys, and the boat rows out to where a whale has been seen from the crows nest at the top of the mast. They will harpoon the whale, eventually killing it and bringing it back to the ship where the blubber will be melted into oil and put in a barrel. The ship won’t return to port until all barrels are full.

Setting off from the ship in the whaling boat.

Harpooning the whale with 1,000 feet of line – at this point the boat goes for a “Nantucket sleigh ride” being pulled by the whale.

The crew returning to the ship climbing up the pulleys.

The museum is like Williamsburg of the sea. The town was founded by a family of shipbuilders and has been preserved (or recreated ) to be very authentic. The staff do an excellent job of explaining the shipbuilding reconstruction work, the cooperage and iron work, and there’s a planetarium teaching navigation by the stars. The clock shop also has a display of sextants and chronographs and the first grandfather clock ( ask Rod to sing a few verses for you).

Tonight we move into a marina in the town of Mystic – and yes, Mystic Pizza is on our dinner plans.

TTFN

Wednesday, August 21, 2024

As you recall, we rushed back to Padanarum ahead of Hurricane Ernesto.  We wanted to get settled by Saturday night, because it looked like things might be a little uncomfortable on Sunday and Monday.  And we had to be there by Monday, to ensure that we got some further repairs. 

I used Sunday to give the boat a thorough cleaning, and Lynn got caught up on laundry.  We had some rain on Sunday and Monday, but we weren’t really affected by the hurricane itself.

True to our experience last visit, Pete and Ainge and Kim – the service team at South Wharf Yacht Yard – were terrific.  The parts were waiting, all painted Cummins Marine White.  And the service work was impeccable.

Tuesday morning dawned bright and sunny, so we cast off our lines and headed across Buzzards Bay to one of my favorite places in all the world: Cuttyhunk.  It’s the last island at the end of the Elizabeth Islands – south of the Massachusetts coast and north of Martha’s Vineyard.  It encloses a harbor with 360* protection…Google it!

Cuttyhunk has 30 full-time residents and room for 100 visiting yachts!  There is NOTHING to do here but walk, and enjoy the incredible vistas: 

– To the south, you can see the bluffs and the lighthouse at Gay Head – the westernmost tip of Martha’s Vineyard.

– To the north, Buzzards Bay

– To the west lies Rhode Island Sound and Block Island.

A view from a high point on the island

It’s all about sandy walks on rocky peninsulas with water on both sides of the path, bordered by Rosa Rugosa and the terracotta-colored Beach Plum and lavender-colored Morning Glories, and Cornflowers with their unique shade of blue.   It’s heavenly.

The tire marks one of the few access points to the beach over the dunes.

We took another walk this afternoon and got a great shot of the harbor – its really beautiful here!

But you never know who you’re going to see on a walk – made from trash found on the island

We had a nice surprise when a young couple, Kristen and Joe, stopped by. They had just purchased a 2008 Legacy just like mine. They came on board with their dachshund and compared notes.

We ordered dinner from the Raw Bar boat and while waiting, we enjoyed a stuffie appetizer – a quahog clam mixed with a bread stuffing and spices. Oysters, shrimp, and clam chowder being delivered soon!

A stuffie – first time for everything!

The Raw Bar Boat bringing us dinner!

Rod’s dinner – oysters, little necks and clam chowder – yum?

This has been the most restful stay of the trip.

Tomorrow, we expect to leave for the busy harbor of Watch Hill, RI.

TTFN

Sunday, August 18, 2024

Lynn here today…..

Leaving Kennebunkport…

We had a beautiful sunset on our way to dinner at Chez Rosa, unquestionably the finest meal the entire trip. We are moving to a new harbor each day, as we race to get settled before Ernesto hits, but we’re taking time to enjoy stops along the way.

Sunset in Kennebunkport

But before we leave Maine, let’s talk a bit about the lighthouses. The coast is dotted with them – 70 total – and the temptation is to take photos of each one. It’s amazing to think that these were the main source of navigation along a very rocky coast before satellites, charts, and GPS. The ancient mariners had their work cut out for them. (We didn’t mention the boat across from us in Camden was named Ancient Mariner II, with a couple – he was 106 and had a patent on radar and she was a 96 year old Harvard trained pediatrician!)

Owl’s Head Lighthouse – Rod’s favorite ( I think he just likes the name,)

The lighthouses use a technique developed by the French physicist Augustin-Jean Fresnel (1788–1827) for use in lighthouses. The fresnel lens combines refraction and reflection to capture more light from the source making it visible at greater distances. BTW it’s pronounced Freh-nell.

This lens is about 8 feet tall.

Arrived in Scituate, Massachusetts, on a beautiful, clear afternoon. (Up here they pronounce that Schituate.) The entrance to the harbor is narrow, but opens up to a huge mooring field. The town is really cute – we expect many Boston commuters travel an hour to work each day so they can live here and enjoy this beautiful town. .

Yesterday, we arrived back in Pandanaram, and we will be holed up here for a few days. (This one is a real tongue-twister: Paid’ nuhram). We’ve had extremely calm seas recently, but the forecast is for things to get pretty rough from the offshore effects of Hurricane Ernesto. This is another lovely town with excellent mechanics at the marina, so we will be here until we’re sure it’s safe to continue our travels south.

TTFN

Thursday, August 15, 2024

We made our return visit to Boothbay Harbor yesterday.  I can’t believe that we’re on our way back already, and we still have weeks to go.

As we left Camden Wednesday morning, the sea was smooth as glass, with a light haze over the water and the islands.  At one point, we couldn’t tell where the sea ended and the sky began.  

We made a short detour to Tenants Harbor, where Jamie Wyeth spent so much time…then on to Boothbay.  We arrived in time for a lobster roll lunch! Dinner was a treat at Dunton’s Dogs, a small, well known hot dog/hamburger stand – local fine dining at its best!

Today (Thursday), we left Boothbay for Kennebunkport, but as we were checking the news and weather, we saw that Ernesto, hurricane number 2 of our trip, was going to cause some travel problems. While it is predicted to stay offshore, the swells are expected to reach 8 feet by Saturday night! We needed to get somewhere and hunker down by Saturday night! But we cant stop just anywhere, because we need to be back in South Dartmouth (Pandanaram) on Sunday for scheduled repairs on Monday. We made a few calls and we will now be in Padanaram for five nights beginning Saturday. Of course that neccessitated a handful of schedule changes…

But we did it! We raced to Kennebunkport with a thunderstorm on our stern and have dinner plans at a lovely French restaurant. Life is good!

TTFN

August 12-14, 2024

We left Southwest Harbor Tuesday morning, under beautiful cruising conditions: clear skies and just a moderate swell remaining after Debby passed.

Nadan, 151 ft built in 2009 by Berger in the style of Great Gatsby – available for charter – anyone?

And another sweet boat we saw as we were leaving Southwest Harbor.

As I mentioned in our last blog, we were sort of circumnavigating Penobscot Bay in a counterclockwise direction:  Up the famous Eggemoggin Reach to the lovely harbor at Castine, where we grabbed a free mooring ball and enjoyed lunch.  Then south to Vinal Haven, for a drive-through at beautiful Pulpit Cove; then west to Camden.

While having lunch, we watched the sails go up, and this “push boat” take her out of the harbor.

Camden was one of my “must-do” stops.  Last time I was up this way, I had not been able to get a slip, and I had to do a “drive-through”. I liked what I saw…

So, this time I reserved well in advance, and pretty much planned the rest of the dates around it.

Morning in Camden

I was not disappointed.  It’s a double harbor: the outer harbor has lovely island vistas, and the inner harbor is packed with boats and restaurants.  Like most Maine towns, the land surrounding the harbor is steep and hilly.  

The two outstanding features of the inner harbor are the library and the waterfall.  The waterfall marks the spot where the Megunticook River spills out into the harbor.

The library looks like it was designed by Thomas Jefferson…high on a hill at the head of the harbor, surrounded by a beautiful park with no leash laws.  Guinness had a ball!

Can you find the dog?

We stayed in Camden three days, making critical visits to nail salons and barbershops.  

Did a little window shopping – free to a good home!

Let us know if you want this chimp picture…

Meanwhile, we’re off to Boothbay Harbor!
TTFN

Saturday, August 10, 2024

Debby passed us last night, and I slept through it. The wind was still blowing when we awoke, but we were completely protected on the windward side by Marie, the yacht that Lynn told you about yesterday.

i’m writing this update at 11:00 am, and it is calm and hazy in the harbor. Much better than expected.

We hope that all of you are safe and dry!

THE CLAM BEFORE THE STORM

Friday, August 9, 2024

Wasn’t that clever?  We enjoyed some fried clams last night, and tonight we expect Debbie to arrive.   The Clam Before the Storm.  HaHa.

Here’s a screen shot of Debby from one of the weather apps.  She has a sweet girly name, but there is something about her that seems kind of masculine, wouldn’t you agree?

More about Debby later…

but first, a little gratitude for the last few days, which were ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!    Bar Harbor is SO picturesque, and we had three perfect days to enjoy it.  Quintessential Maine summer.  Sun, comfortable temperature, and calm seas. BLISS!

A beautiful sunset in Bar Harbor

Yesterday, Lynn had the wheel almost the entire morning.  We didn’t have far to go: maybe 10 miles, so it gave us time to take a side trip up into Somes Sound, 4-mile-long fjord that cuts deep into Mt. Desert Island.  More iconic Maine views!  Then, we tied up at Dysart’s Marina. 

Looking up the Sound

We had seen this beauty pulling into Newport – even more magnificent on the water!

We are docked right next to Marie – a boat 136’ in length originally built in 1930 and lovingly restored over the last ten years. The detail and varnish work are spectacular!

*************************

The weather apps tell us Debby arrives here overnight – peaking between 8PM and 8AM – with sustained winds of 25mph and gusts to 40mph.  Certainly not a hurricane.  In fact, Debby is now classified as a Tropical Depression.  Still, the winds are expected to produce 6-foot swells all day tomorrow – Saturday   Fortunately, we are (as always) safely berthed in a protected marina.  We’re expecting some drama, but no trauma.  I hope I just sleep through it!

What a difference a day makes!

We had planned to move to a mooring at Hinkley’s Yard Saturday night, because the views are beautiful – you’re looking right up Somes Sound.  But we are not going to put the boat and crew at risk in 6-foot seas.  And hooking up to a mooring ball just feels a lot more uncomfortable than being lashed strongly to a dock.  So, we’re staying put and laying low.

Sunday looks like a MUCH better travel day: the winds are predicted to be mild, and the swells drop to 3’.  We’re planning to complete our circumnavigation of Penobscot Bay, heading counterclockwise up the Eggemoggin Reach and then over to Camden.

We’ll post again tomorrow after Debby has passed, and we’ll let you know how we make out.

Stay safe.  Stay dry.  

TTFN

Wednesday, August 7,2024

Let’s get caught up…

On Sunday, we traveled from Boothbay Harbor to Rockland, our first destination within Penobscot Bay.  Gentle rollers and little wind, but we had the Radar on all the way – lots of fog and rain.  And it was cold – just 65*.  Quite a contrast from the 95* at home.  And THAT”s why we came to Maine – to escape the heat.

Thanks to fortunate timing, we landed in Rockland in time to enjoy the Maine Lobster Festival.  Our favorite event was the Lobster Cage Race: volunteers packed dozens of lobster cages (lobster traps) with seaweed to make them float.  Then they tied the cages together to make a long “floating bridge” between two piers.  The winner was the one who made it the farthest before falling in!   Hilarity ensued!

We also enjoyed the Lifesaving Museum, featuring the story of the Fresnel lens, which enabled a single bulb or kerosene lamp to be seen miles away at sea!

On Tuesday (yesterday), we cruised from Rockland to Bar Harbor – about 4 hours – right through the heart of Penobscot Bay.  There are marked channels – called Thorofares – that wind their way between the islands.  It was cold – just 65*, but the scenery was lovely and the seas were calm.

Today – Wednesday – has been the best yet in Maine: sunny and warm (70*).  Bright blue skies and calm seas.  And Bar Harbor is gorgeous.

I sailed through Bar Harbor on my first trip to Maine in 2021, but I wasn’t able to reserve a boat slip, so I couldn’t stay.  As I motored by, I was not impressed: 

• There was much more commercial activity than I expected…I thought Baa Haabaaah would be all frou-frou.

• The entire harbor seemed to be faced by an imposing concrete wall…not very inviting.

This time, we reserved one of the four slips at the Town Dock, and everything takes on a different perspective:

• Yes, there is commercial activity, but it’s fascinating to watch the lobster boats pull in and unload their catch into the waiting trucks. (See Lynn’s comments below)

• Yes, there’s a concrete wall around the harbor, but on TOP of the wall is the Seaside Walk, which offers unobstructed views of the surrounding harbor.

The town is cute and touristy, with tons of restaurants.  But it is the vista that defines this place.

Bar Harbour is the apex of our trip: when we leave tomorrow, we turn South and West for the first time since we left Cape May.

We’re not going far tomorrow…just a few miles, circling Mt. Desert and Acadia National Park in a clockwise direction, headed for three nights in Southwest Harbor.

TTFN

PS: Lynn here….About those LOBSTERS. Rod mentioned the commercial aspect of Bar Harbor, but lets look at some of the actual workings of how those delicious creatures get to our plates.

The harbor is filled with commercial lobster boats in the evening, but in the morning, it is almost empty as they head out for their day’s catch.

Rod’s boat is the red hull on the left.

The dinghy’s are all lined up in the evening, and are taken out to their moorings to board the commercial boats in the am.

Here’s a boat done for the day. – traps and bouys aboard.

Each lobsterman has distinctive buoys attached to their traps which tells the other lobstermen who owns which traps. They have a permit number on the trap and the boat also has the permit number and the buoy color on its side.

The boat pulls up to the dock where there are trucks waiting to take their catch. A bucket is lowered and filled with lobsters and then the worker from the truck puts them in bins. These lobsters are going to Massachusetts and Texas.

in 2021, the volume of lobsters was 108,048,794 pounds with a value of $724,949,426. The increase from 2020 was more than the catch for the entire year of 2009.

August 3, 2024

Last night we enjoyed a beautiful evening in Portland.  Fried oyster lettuce wraps!  Yummy!

It poured rain during the night, and we awoke to fog.  By 9:30, the fog appeared to be lifting, the rain had stopped, and we set out for Boothbay Harbor, the heart of Mid-coast Maine boating.

The fog never did burn off; we ran on Radar at reduced speed all the way.

If you can see the green can about 5 seconds from the boat, you win a candy bar!

Nevertheless, we made it to Boothbay Harbor just in time for lunch: our first authentic Maine Lobster Roll.  And BOY! Was it good!

The Cuckold Lighthouse entering Boothbay Harbor

Rod enjoying his first lobster roll in Maine.

You know you’re in Maine when the cole slaw has blueberries in it!

Tomorrow, we’re off to Rockland Maine.  If it’s not too foggy, we plan a stop at Tenant’s Harbor, inspiration for many of Jamie Wyeth’s paintings!

TTFN