Boston – 2

Ahhhh…a slow and peaceful day! After our tiring day yesterday, we slept until 9:30. 10-1/2 hrs. That has to be a personal record.

Mission #1 today was re-provisioning. Water, to be specific. I am drinking ungodly amounts of water.

As luck would have it, Guinness found a nearby solution.

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But first, a little background:

As you sail into Boston Harbor, the city presents itself right in front of you, and you see its familiar buildings and its waterfront from a new perspective. Sorry – I still can’t get photos to load, even if I reduce them in size. Any of you have any ideas?

Anyway, we continued around to the right, passing along the waterfront, and turned left into what’s called the Inner Harbor, which is actually the mouth of the Charles River. There are a huge set of locks that separate the river from the harbor, and our marina is right below the locks. Yesterday, because of the high water table, they had all the locks open – lowering the river. As we tried to enter our slip, the cross-current was so strong that we needed three dockhands to wrestle the boat safely into the slip. Drama, but no trauma!

We’re docked on the north side of the river – in Charlestown – and it is delightful. This morning, we walked about a quarter-mile to see Old Ironsides – the USS Constitution, which is docked in the very next wharf.

On the way, Guinness met a very nice woman walking a Water Dog, and she told us about a nearby 7-11 which is located down in the old Navy Yard. She was walking that way, so we walked another half-mile mile with Skipper and his mom. There was a regatta of small sailboats out in the harbor, and she told us that her kids were in it as instructors. She and her husband are sailors, and residents of Charlestown.

What a pleasant walk! Charlestown (and Boston) has so many attractive buildings and squares. Lots of brick, and granite, and water views. And Charlestown is so much less hectic than Boston! Yesterday was crowded with tourists, residents, construction, and traffic. Our walk this morning was much more peaceful.

So we found the 7-11. We never would have found it without help, since it was built with architectural integrity – it blended it with the rest of the historic district – right down to the quaint signage.

Anyway, a few minutes later, we are sitting outside the store with two cases of water. 24 pounds apiece. No way I can carry them to the boat. Since we don’t have a car, that means UBER! 5 minutes later, we’re back at the marina. Thank goodness for Uber!

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So now we’re back on the boat. It’s warm: 82 degrees at noon, with a slight breeze, and the harbor is glassy.

Boston’s largest off-the-leash dog park is just around the corner, so I have a feeling we’ll be heading over there soon. Otherwise, we may just clean the boat and take it easy.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Portland, New Hampshire, to meet a college classmate.

Boston

Today was a real test of one’s seamanship. It cooled off today – high in the 70’s, so that created fog. We traveled the whole way in fog, with the radar on. Visibility was less than 500 feet. I could see the blips on the radar screen, but it was still scary when other boats suddenly appeared in such close proximity.

I was glad I had spent that tedious hour last night building our routes, because we certainly couldn’t navigate without the waypoints.

But, we made it safe and sound.

Our marina is in Boston’s North End, close to Bunker Hill, Paul Revere’s House, and the Old North Church. We walked for 5 miles today, into the Boston Common. The Swan Boats weren’t running, but Guinness was. I estimate that there are about 14,000 squirrels in Boston Common Park, and he chased half of them. We walked home along the Charles River Espanade. Very nice..

There are a ton of Italian restaurants in the North End…it’s like a European city – the sidewalks are narrow, and the streets are only wide enough for one car. We had seafood pasta. Yum!

I’m very tired now, after the trip, the walking, and a bottle of Sangiovese.

Sweet dreams, all!

Onset, MA

We’re holed up in Onset, MA, the closest harbor to the Cape Cod Canal. The idea is to position ourselves for a run through the canal tomorrow, and then across Cape Cod Bay to Boston.

I’ll write again when we get to Boston tomorrow.This will be a brief post tonight. Guinness and I are fine, it just took me a long time to build our route for Boston tomorrow, and I’m having a lot of trouble getting a server connection.

I’ll write again when we get to Boston tomorrow.

Newport – Day 2

Noon, straight up, and it is hot. 82 degrees. Real Feel 88. 75% humidity.

As I promised myself, I got some maintenance done this morning before it got too hot. Washed clothes, added a quart of oil, pumped the bilges. Exciting? No. But satisfying.

The heat is a limitation for Guinness, because it is simply too uncomfortable for long walks. Plus, I am realizing that I am very susceptible to the heat. I really must drink ungodly amounts of water to stay on my game. It’s actually a lot better when we are underway: we are never hot on the boat, because we generate our own 20-mph breeze. I often wear a long-sleeved shirt, because I’m chilly.

Right now, I was hanging out on the air-conditioned boatl,listening to Taylor Swift’s “Red album” over and over, and reading a crime thriller. Actually on vacation! When I finish this post, however, I will take Guinness to a nearby beach so he can cool off. And I will carry water!

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As they used to say in Monty Python’s Flying Circus: “And now for something completely different!”

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I had a personal revelation this morning:

Cathy and I had visited Newport twice : once on vacation, and once for a National Rolls Royce Meet, when we owned an antique car that we wanted to show. I remembered that Newport is charming: Bannister’s Wharf, all the restaurants and bars, many with water views. But what I remember most is the simple pleasures of being here with someone you love.

We stayed in a hotel; our balcony had a water view (of course). I always reserved a water view. And we always enjoyed a simple ritual: we’d run out to the local liquor store and/or deli, and get pepperoni, cheese and crackers. And enjoy cocktails on the balcony or deck. Always.

The town is fun, but what I remember is BEING here with Cathy. So it is very heart-warming to realize that this traveling is fun, but what truly makes it memorable is enjoying the places and sights with someone you love.

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OK, I have to admit that the words above sound banal as I see them on the screen. Like, DUH!

But at the same time, they seem rather profound. A simple truth, perhaps. If you’re with someone you love, let them know it. Your time together is what you’re going to remember.

(And if you’re still seeking, keep your heart open.)

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Well, this is obviously not the post I intended…

I thought today would be a travelogue, but instead it’s introspective…

All part of the journey, I guess.

Newport, RI

WOW! This is without doubt the busiest harbor I’ve ever entered. Large and small sailboats under sail (inside the harbor), huge ferries leaving for Block Island, tourist schooners sounding a horn and then backing out of their slip right in front of us. Crazy.

But we managed to refuel and dock without drama (or trauma).Today, Guinness and I walked the town for an hour. Newport Harbor is centered around a series of huge wharfs that jut out into the harbor: Bowen’s Wharf, Bannister’s Wharf, etc. There are marinas at the end, but the wharves themselves are dedicated to restaurants and retail. All upscale.

It’s very interesting blend of people here. Authentic sailor types, and tons of tourists. This is , after all, the heart of our America’s Cup challenges.

This evening, our marina offered Free Beer Friday, and Guinness was wandering around, making friends, as usual. One of the sailors who was there said: “This must be Newport; even the stray dogs are Labradoodles!”

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Our wharf is a working shipyard, and they have some AMAZING yachts here. I saw an 85′ Maxi sailboat up “on the hard” with a keel deeper than my boat is long. I have never seen anything like it.

I am docked directly beside one of the biggest mega-yachts I have ever seen. It absolutely dwarfs Freedom.

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Thinking back to yesterday, we really had a great stay at Saybrook Point. It is a lovely inn, with the marina and complete resort facilities. Indoor and outdoor dining. If you ever consider visiting the Connecticut River Valley (Essex, Old Lyme, Saybrook), this spot should be on your shortlist. Not cheap, but close to perfect.

I ate lunch and dinner outdoors, overlooking the marina and the river. During dinner, Guinness met a lovely woman in a sundress, and she joined us for post-cocktail cocktails (cranberry juice and soda). She was very charming.

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It was a good ride up to Newport: morning fog, so we had to use the radar. But the seas were calm.

We are spending two days here, and I plan to devote tomorrow morning to housekeeping chores (check the oil, coolant, strainers, etc. Do the laundry.

Maybe we’ll have dinner in one of the fancy waterside restaurants. Maybe a dive bar, if we can find one in this lovely town.

I seem to be having problems downloading even small photos; nevertheless, tomorrow I’ll try to take some photos that capture the Newport scene.

Guinness sends his love to you all!

Saybrook Point

What a spectacular day! Long Island sound was like glass. 80 degrees; 20 knot breeze (because we were going 20 kn). It was one of the best days I’ve ever had on the water. It was hazy for about an hour, but we have radar.


We had a leisurely start this morning: we left at 8:30, and just screamed up Long Island Sound. The boat is running like a champ.

At noon on the button, we entered the Saybrook Point Channel:

By 1230 we were fueled and tied up at the beautiful Saybrook Point Marina.

The marina is located at the mouth of the Connecticut River, the longest river in Connecticut. It runs 410 miles from its source in the mountains of New Hampshire. It is GORGEOUS here at its mouth: wide and wild, with two lighthouses and lots of beautiful boats passing by. We’ve been here several times by car, and I know it can get very sloppy out here, but today is fine.

At present, we are sitting at their gorgeous restaurant overlooking the marina. I just finished six Pearly Whites (Oysters from Rhode Island), and a delicious lobster roll. This is me and Alysha, my wonderful server. I asked her to add a little glamour to the photo. I remembered her from my last visit.

This has been a typically expensive stop: $310 for fuel, $200 for the slip and electricity. PLUS $100 for lunch.

BUT…If I ever have a better day on the water, or if I ever have a better lobster roll, or if I ever eat a more delicious oyster, I’ll be shocked. This is shaping up to be a pretty perfect day.

Zeigler’s Cove

If Tuesday was ridiculous, then Wednesday must be sublime.

As you know, we left NYC without a specific destination in mind. A healthy sign for me! We sped north up the East River with a 3-knot current at our stern. As we broke out into Long Island Sound, the fog began to burn off, and the water was glassy smooth. Quite a change from the day before…

On a whim, I decided to visit Zeigler’s Cove, on the Connecticut shore between Stamford and Norwalk.

When I was HALF my current age (about 39), Cathy and I would come here almost every Sunday. We would drop the anchor; I would work on the boat, and Cathy would read a book. We would swim, have lunch, take a shower, and cook dinner on the grill. Idyllic. We had busy lives – both working in New work at demanding jobs, so this was our getaway.

It’s amazing to me that another 39 years have passed before I returned.

It is a gorgeous cove: surrounded by imposing granite banks, with a narrow opening, and a tricky channel guarded by submerged rocks. With today’s chart plotters, entry is easy. In the old days, with a deep-draft sailboat, I did it mostly by “Braille”.

The cove opening faces east, so you are looking due east – right up the Sound toward Maine. The iconic Green’s Ledge Light and the Norwalk Islands are framed by the opening. It is sunny, calm, and 88 degrees with a gentle breeze. It just couldn’t be prettier!

ANYWAY, the point is, Guinness and I are staying here tonight! We will finish of the chicken and the delicious salads Judy brought. Plus cake, of course!

I’ve been recalling memories of the times I spent with Cathy for the last couple of hours. I just sit here, smiling, hoping that we appreciated at the time (38 years ago) what a good life we had! (I kinda think we did!)

And how’s this for a sunset (reflected, since we’rehacing east.

Tomorrow, we head for the eastern tip of Long Island, but for now, I’m taking Guinness for a dinghy ride and a swim. What a great day!

NYC Wed AM

Last night’s post was kind of rushed, and I was kind of impaired, so I thought I’d add a few embellishments. I wanted to let you all know that we were OK, but it’s tough to type after 2-1/2 bottles of wine!

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Yesterday’s trip up the New Jersey Coast was rough, and we didn’t do it on purpose. We all (me, Steve, Steven) looked at the weather apps the day before in Beach Haven, and it looked perfect. Wind just 6 knots, from the south. And it started out fairly smooth. But as the day went on, the seas slowly built. Then we hit fog, and had to use the radar.

We had three contingency exits: Barnegat Inlet, Manesquan Inlet, and Shark River Inlet. By the time we got to Manesquan Inlet, I was ready to throw in the towel. Not because it was hard on me, but because it’s hard on the boat. But – if you look at a chart – by the time you’ve reached Manesquan Inlet, you are almost to NY.

So we kept going, and I’m glad we did. The more you expose yourself to rough seas, or fog, the better equipped you are to accept them. It doesn’t make the ride any more comfortable, but from a mental perspective, you are much more confident: you’ve seen it all before.

That outside trip up the Jersey Coast was always going to be dicey, and now it’s behind us.

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This marina that we are in is owned and managed by the NYC Parks Service. It’s been a LOONG time since there was budget money for repairs or maintenance. Buy it’s a great location.

And it was nice to see Judy last night..

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Today is a strange kind of day. Weather-wise, it’s overcast and foggy. The tops of all the skyscrapers are shrouded in fog. Sound is muffled.

And we have no place to go! I was hoping to get together with my cousin Emily and her family, but she had to cancel.

As a result, I am sitting here at 8AM, writing to you, instead of making a passage.

It also means that we can go anywhere in Long Island Sound that we choose! There will be fog early, but it should burn off by 11. This will be fun!

NYC

NYC. That’s all you need to say, isn’t it? Instantly recognizable. We are here and we are safe.

Unfortunately, we got our brains beat out getting here: two hours of fog, four hours of huge rollers. One of them so severe it actually lifted me off my feet and dropped me back to the deck.

Here’s the funny thing we almost got Riley and Neeve (two of Steve’s gorgeous 23-yr-old restaurant employees) to come along on the trip to New York. Good thing they chickened out.

We left at seven and cleared Sandy Hook (New Jersey’s northern tip) at noon. Less than an hour later we were passing the Statue of Liberty, and we were tied up an hour after that.


Here’s the magic part Judy Galloway a friend of mine for 40 years brought a four course dinner down to the marina. What fun!

Here’s Judy with Guinness, plus a shot of the amazing cake.

I don’t think you can see the incredible details in this cake, but it is made of layer after layer of crepes, with vanilla cream in between. Each crepe is paper thin ( how do they make them so thin and yet so strong?), and there must be 30 layers!

It was a very nice evening, and now here we are, with Riverside Drive on our port side and the Hudson river on our right, listening to Paul Desmond. I know I’m lucky!

Beach Haven

Today’s trip could not have been much smoother – a great birthday present.

It is a bright sunny day – so sunny that as we left Cape May – heading east out of the inlet, we could hardly read the instruments. Then we turned north, set the automatic pilot, and three hours later we were at the Little Egg Harbor Inlet.

I wouldn’t say that the ocean was calm, but it was mostly big swells that passed under the hull from the starboard quarter. Kind of like a slow roller coaster. But not enough to strain the boat. Kind of normal for the ocean.

Even better: Steve came out in his boat to meet me and guide me to the marina.

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Some fun stuff from the trip up:

  • love my new watch. I’m talking to one person, and texting others. Everyone calling or texting to say Happy BD.
  • The ocean was so manageable (and so empty) that I moved back to sit in one of the lounges on the bridge deck – right behind the captain’s seat. Very comfortable, with a great view of the wake streaming out behind us. And the motion of the boat is diminished, because you are at or near the center of motion. Guinness came back to join me, and I think it was better for him as well.