South Seas Island Resort is at the northern tip of Captiva Island. On the east, its beaches face the Gulf of Mexico; on the west, Pine Island Sound. The island at this end is maybe 1/2 mile across. At the northern tip, a narrow channel called Redfish Pass separates Captiva and North Captiva Islands. It was once a single island, until a hurricane cut a pass between the two.

The waterway guides urge extreme caution, because Redfish Pass is subject to constant shifts and shoaling — local knowledge is essential. So when I was in Everglades City, I called the dockmaster at South Seas to inquire. His advice was short and sweet: “Ignore your paper charts. Ignore your chart plotter. Download the diagram from our website and commit to it totally. If you do, it’s no problem.”

Well, he was right. There is a straight, deep channel right down the middle, marked by three buoys. You align yourself with the first buoy, set your course due east, and you do not waver until you pass the last buoy. Waves are breaking over the shoals on either side of you. Somewhat anxiety-inducing, but in fact, no problem.

Anyway, we slept 12 hours last night: 7:30 to 7:30. Cumulative exhaustion, I suppose. I lay down listening to my playlist on low volume and woke up 8 hours later with it still playing. Then slept another 4 hours.

I knew today was going to have some harsh conditions, so we walked to the bay side to have a look. We were met with a beautiful sunrise over calm seas on the Sound. What the heck?

We then headed for the Gulf side so that Guinness could get in a run on the beach. We were met with totally different conditions: 15-knot winds; 4-foot seas; a 10-degree drop in temperature. Seas are forecast to go to 8 feet. Guinness loved it; he was invigorated. But it was definitely blowing.

We walked over to look at Redfish Pass under today’s conditions. I looked at it and marveled that we had actually passed through it yesterday (under much better conditions.) I was very impressed that the entire channel is surrounded by white water – waves breaking, marking the shallow water.

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We’re now back from exploring the island. A nice 6-mile walk. We are staying in the marina at South Seas Plantation. I was here years ago on a business boondoggle, and I was curious to know if it was as beautiful as I remembered. It certainly is. We’ll stop here again on our return loop.

Well, a lot has happened since we left Key West. The leg from Key West to Everglades City was our longest so far – 6 hours, with the 4 in the middle out of the sight of land and in a thin fog. We actually had to put the radar on. Fortunately, there were no other boats around. Just us, for 4 hours. Totally dependent on our instruments.

But everything went OK, and we tied up at the Rod & Gun Club at 1 PM. You’ve seen the photos of the classic rooms inside.

The airboat trip was fun. It was not the kind where you sweep over grasses. Instead, we were speeding down natural tunnels through the mangroves. We saw alligators, raccoons, and lots of birds, but the real fun was the high-speed spins and turns. By the way, it was cold that day. I was wearing gloves!

Last night, we met these three rowdy rascals. They get together every year at a different location. They call themselves “Sen-agers” because they are seniors who act like teen-agers.

That evening, I met three women who were having a reunion: one from Virginia, one from Tampa, and one from the Keys. We had a lot of fun drinking and shooting pool.

Needless to say, I was not in very good shape the next day.

Which was too bad, because – as I posted earlier – it was a very rough passage.

But Naples was delightful, and now we are on Captiva Island. Today’s crossing was the opposite of yesterday…brilliant sunshine, 1-foot seas…a perfect ride. From the abusive to the sublime in 24 hours.

We are docked at South Sea island Resort. It is gorgeous. Three miles of property on the Gulf. Everything perfectly manicured and maintained. And dogs are allowed on the beach without leashes. Joy prevailed. EVERYONE loves watching Guinness leap and gambol in the surf. Two dolphins are playing next to my boat as I write this.

PLUS, we ran into some people we met in Key West. We are dog friends.

Rough seas are forecast for the next two days, so it looks like I am stuck here until MLK Day. Poor me.

Along that line, I had kind of an epiphany today. I am always looking at all these people with their beautiful boats, staying in these beautiful resorts, and I realized: Hey! Me too!

More photos to follow. This is cutting into my cocktail time.

Love you all.

R

Hi everyone…we’re in Naples this morning. I need to go back and fill in the last couple of days, but I’m pressed for time this AM – gotta get moving. Here’s a quick update – more to follow.

We left Everglades City yesterday morning and got our brains beat out rounding Cape Romano. If you go back and look at my earlier Everglades post, you can see the chart.

We left Everglades City at 7AM, and when we left the shelter of the Ten Thousand Islands, the Gulf of Mexico was much rougher than we had expected from the forecast. It took us three hours to round Cape Romano. We had to reduce speed for the conditions, and by 10:00 we had barely made it to Marco Island. The chart plotter told me we had another 2 hours to go to reach Captiva, and I just threw in the towel.

That was the first time in the entire trip we aborted a planned passage. Good decision.

We pulled into Marco Island at Capri Pass, turned left, and took the ICW north to Naples. It is a pretty stretch. There’s not much water in this stretch of the ICW (we touched twice), but it was calm and sunny. Very little development. All mangroves and sand.

As an unexpected bonus, we were able to have dinner with Chris, Kim, and Valerie (cousins) at Sea Salt in Naples. Best meal I have had in years. Great company, as well.

Today we are off to Captiva for one night and then on to Sarasota for a week.

Take care. Stay safe.

It’s just as advertised: a throwback to Old Florida. Polished mahogany walls and floors; fish and game trophies on the walls; a walk-around fireplace with a huge copper brazier; and a wonderful dining room and screened porch. Just call this Throwback Tuesday.

It’s laid back and quiet: the noisiest sound is the flapping of pelican wings as they take off from the river. AND…They have 50 amp power and the Internet works! Woo-Hoo.

The history of the Club dates back to the first permanent white settler in 1864. In 1922, Barron G. Collier, a banker and railroad man, bought almost all of Southwest Florida, including the Rod & Gun Club, where he hosted international dignitaries and several US Presidents. Since 1972, the Bowen family from Michigan have owned and operated the Club.

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Tonight, we’ll check out the classic bar (complete with stuffed sailfish). Tomorrow: Airboat Ride!

It’s 5AM, and we’re finally getting ready to leave for the Everglades. We need an hour or so to walk and feed the dog, make lunch in advance, and batten down the boat. I expect to leave at first light.

I didn’t sleep much last night. In bed by 9, with an alarm set for 5, and then I lay there wide awake until about 2:30. Not worried or anything. Just wide awake. Like how MSG used to make you feel.

Oh well, at least we’re going.

We’ll be back in touch when we get to the swamps!

Joy can come on you unexpectedly, like watching your dog gambol and play. Or simply being at sea with the sun on your back and the wind in your face.

But happiness – I believe – is a mindful decision. I believe you can – and must – simply decide to be happy. And grateful. I know many of you share this point of view.

And it’s one of the most important decisions you can make. It will affect the way you treat others, and the way they respond to you. It will help you deal with setbacks, and even influence your health.

Sorry if this is fatuous or obvious, but Key West seems like a good place to be happy.

I thought I’d create a montage of some of the amusing signs and inexplicable artifacts we’re encountered on our walks around town…

Here’s another thing I love about Key West…it is so small that you travel everywhere by bicycle. And the bicycles are rolling works of art. Check out the one on the right, with flashing wheel rims and Christmas lights on the basket.

This is Barbara, one of the wonderful people I’ve met this week.

I really had fun last night. I have met some terrific people who are full-time residents. We went to a restaurant, a comedy club, and danced until after midnight. Six adults and six of their 25-year-old kids, all out together, having a ball.

All of the venues we visited were open-air and beautifully appointed. Upscale but very relaxed. The residents know all the bands on a first-name basis, and the bands are excellent.

This island certainly has a lot going for it. Unique indigenous architecture, friendly people, exciting night life, tropical weather, and a fun-loving, laid-back vibe.

One of the women asked me about my schedule – when I told her I would arrive home about March 1st, she asked me why? Isn’t it still winter then? She made me stop and reconsider my plans.

I am now thinking about coming back to Key West after my trip up the west coast. Maybe stay another month.

Today is colder (65 degrees) and windy. My next weather window is Tuesday, so I’m sticking around until then. Tonight, there is a party at John and Kiera’s house – she is the woman in the striped top. Three of the kids are hers. Looking forward to it!

Just a quick update: I’ve decided to stay in Key West until Sunday. No problem…just a number of fun opportunities conspiring to make that a good idea.

More news to follow.

The food down here is strongly influenced by Cuban cuisine (remember, we’re only 90 miles away). I am really enjoying it.

You start your day with Cuban coffee. Many order a “Bucci”; it’s a shot of straight espresso in a tiny plastic cup. With lots of sugar. Some folks call it Cuban crack. It’s too strong for me; I prefer Cafe con Leche …it’s like a latte, with a shot of espresso and steamed milk.

Then, a breakfast sandwich. The Fisherman’s Cafe makes one called El Cubano. It’s a panini containing a 2-egg omelet, plus a black bean paste, plus pulled pork, plus chorizo, plus cheese. It weighs about 4 pounds. You can eat half for brekky, skip lunch (or have a pina colada), and enjoy the second half for dinner.

Fresh shrimp and fresh fish are everywhere. They bring them into the docks several times a day. Grilled, blackened, fried. In tacos, quesadillas, or served with black beans and rice.

And I find myself putting hot sauce on everything. The Tabasco folks make a green jalapeno version that I am becoming addicted to.

I’m going to have to find a good Cuban restaurant when I get home.

Tomorrow we leave Key West. The boat is ready, and so am I. The diesel is topped off, and so are the water tanks. The holding tanks are empty. The course is plotted. And the weather forecast is excellent.

This next leg promises to be interesting…we leave Key West and head almost due north to Everglades City.

It’s a long leg – about 80 miles. Interestingly, if we headed south instead of north, we could be in Cuba in the time it will take us to reach Everglades City.

I estimate 6 hours – mostly out of the sight of land, with very few (no) navigational markers. Here’s what it looks like on the paper chart. Yes, I am a traditionalist – I still plan the trip on paper charts and then enter them into the chart plotter.

Once we leave Key West Bight, we steer to FK0200, make a 30-degree right turn, and head almost due north to FW0086. Because this is such a long leg – and because there are no intermediate ATONS (Aids to Navigation), I have created a couple of intermediate waypoints, called RRH4 and RRH5, just to reassure myself that I’m on course. If you look carefully at the top of the page, you can see the lines of longitude called out. There is a similar scale up the side of the page for latitude. I chose two points along the route, interpolated the longitude and latitude, and set them in the chart plotter as virtual waypoints. It breaks the long leg into three 20-mile increments.

So why Everglades City? Most folks would probably head due north for Marco Island or Naples. But I am intrigued by the Everglades. All of southwest Florida below Marco island is basically undeveloped – it’s the Everglades National Park.

So, we’re aiming for a place called Everglades City, up a river behind a set of barrier islands called the Ten Thousand Islands. That in itself should be an interesting part of the trip…following a winding channel through the islands to get to the river. The name is kind of ironic – there is certainly no city anywhere near Everglades City!

We’re staying at a B&B/marina called the Rod & Gun Club. Maybe I should have named my dog Gunner. We’d fit right in. Rod and Gunner…get it?

Here’s a photo of the Rod & Gun Club:

I understand that it is like taking a step back in time. All furnished from the time it was an exclusive getaway for presidents and other notables.

Anyway, that’s all for now. I’ll post again if we have Internet connectivity when we get there.